The last time we spoke with Pierre Corthay, he was explaining the art of Parisian bespoke shoes, having just opened his Landmark Men’s boutique.  The shoemaker’s luxurious collection has developed significantly with the designer commenting, “When you are always involved in the work, designing, controlling, producing, it’s not easy to be everywhere,” he says. “In a way, it almost feels like a fairy tale.”

With seven stores around the world, his new Harbour City boutique is an indication of their growth and development; the space almost resembles a contemporary living room. The products have expanded to include an array of different shoes ranging in style, colour, and finish. Belts were introduced recently and are paired with distinct buckles, as he proudly states that he designs them all himself. He hints that by the end of the year, we will see holdalls and weekenders as essential bags for the modern gentleman.

Maison Corthay’s steady growth and resilience in the marketplace is a notable achievement given the nature of the luxury industry, especially the bespoke aspect, still a relatively new concept to the region. Maison Corthay’s progress may be attributed to a number of factors; first and foremost his emphasis on quality. Corthay emphasises that an attention to detail and the utmost care at each stage of the process is something he prides himself on.

Secondly, the designer’s approach to each collection reflects his flexibility and desire to adapt to the times. He notes how twenty years ago he only made brown or black, leather or suede shoes, and that was it. His adaptability is evident from his use of technology and how he gathers inspiration. He says, “You have to be like a sponge. It could be art, sculptures, or cars, I also do a lot of street photography,” he continues. “I’m 52 and I have an Instagram. I’m not used to these things but it’s like food for the brain, almost like a mood board.”

The influence of art and music also plays a significant role in the designer’s life. Corthay mentions how every weekend he tries to visit a gallery or a museum to gather inspiration. Two of his newest designs are inspired from different musical eras, understandable considering his son is on the verge of becoming a professional musician, with just a matter of time before his band signs with a record label, and the mere thought of this already makes Corthay, who himself is a passionate guitar player, beam with pride. He says “today the design of men’s shoes is totally transformed, I think because people realise colour gives you emotion” he says. “It’s like when you look at a Rothko painting, you are fascinated by the colour and emotions that wash over you, that’s why I try to inject colours into our product.”

However, Corthay doesn’t simply look at shoes as a product. Perhaps it’s his perception of the aesthetic and purpose of a well-made shoe that is his greatest strength of all. He observes that, “A shoe is like a car, your personal vehicle,” he says. “It’s also about movement because when we need to walk, so the product has to be something that you can move in, it has to be balanced.”

Perhaps Corthay’s recognition of the importance of quality paired with his willingness to adapt, modernise and embrace change are the assets at the core of his brand. Having started his training as a cobbler at John Lobb to being in competition with them is no easy feat, and its clear that Corthay’s mentality and rejection of conformity are what sets him apart, his willingness to take risks and push the envelope are what has gotten him ahead, and will most likely see him navigating new creative routes for some time to come.

Maison Corthay, Shop 2230, Gateway Arcade, Harbour City, Tsim Sha Tsui

 

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