We round up the last few shows in the fashion capital
March 10, 2015
Don’t You Want Me: Valentino
Have you ever wondered if there’s anything more to life than being really, really ridiculously good looking? Creative director duo Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli certainly have. After all, it was Zoolander and Hansel (Ben Stiller and Owen Wilson, respectively) that closed their show to the 1980’s hit from The Human League. The PR stint was to promote the film’s much anticipated sequel (which began filming in Rome shortly after the show), and it couldn’t have come as more of a surprise. But gimmick aside, the collection was absolutely stunning. In the 1990’s, Valentino was most known for the deep, sultry tone of red they used (famously dubbed ‘Valentino red’), but with the new team at the helms, it’s clear the new era of Valentino is all about the beautifully detailed floor-sweeping gowns.
Blue steel or not, the Valentino AW15 collection was an equally memorable affair
Every Rose Has its Thorn: Alexander McQueen
The Alexander McQueen show was appropriately scheduled for nightfall – there was a great sense of romance intertwined with darkness in Sarah Burton’s rose inspired collection. The delicate nature of the bloom found its way into couture-like eveningwear; dresses took form in the assemblage of three-dimensional rosettes onto the bodice and skirt. Burton took a dare-to-bare approach with the last few looks- lace numbers with peek-a-boo panels were topped off with Edwardian collars- maybe a juxtaposition of something of a more conservative sort. The colour palette did not vary from dusty pink, poppy, a deep burgundy and black. For the readers currently in London, be sure to immerse yourself into the works of Alexander McQueen in V&A’s Savage Beauty exhibit
The laser cut leather neckpiece adds an almost skeletal element to the budding frocks
March 11, 2015
Back to the Future: Louis Vuitton
Much anticipation filled the Fondation Louis Vuitton prior to the show. The venue itself, multiple glass domes fused into a structure, seemed fittingly futuristic. Digital screens were attached to scaffolding inside the building, which later played live streams of the models gliding down the runway. It’s safe to say that Nicolas Ghesquière is going back to his aesthetics have become more apparent in the collection- slightly unconventional (yet flattering) silhouettes, mirrored vanity cases (complete with an initialed plaque), oversized lush sheepskin coats (in artic white)- all made a very strong argument that Nicolas Ghesquière is back.
One of the most referenced looks from the Louis Vuitton was this sheepskin coat look, worn by model newcomer, Fernanda Hin Lin Ly
Pleasantville: Miu Miu
Without a doubt, the 1970’s is having a moment in fashion, but Miuccia Prada being Prada and all, went back even further- to the 1950’s to be exact. The mood was instantly detected upon entering the show venue- plush carpeting paved the catwalk while the walls were lined with retro wallpaper. When it came to show time, thick python-trim herringbone coats in vintage colour combos were styled with glossy croc-embossed mini’s, leopard print blouses and topped off with the oh-so Miu Miu acrylic and crystal earrings. Some of my favourite ensembles were the patterned shirts layered under the balloon-sleeved knits- a fun way to play up layers for the cooler months. And being the sucker for footwear that I am, how could I have not noticed the shoes? They came in various forms – chunky heels, flat Mary Janes, skinny kitten heels, and plastered on top was a Pilgrim buckle- what’s there not to love?
Retro wonders at Miu Miu- granny knits atop pleated python skirts
Justine Lee is Fashion Editor at Hong Kong Tatler
You might also like: