You may have to wait until January 16 for the 27th Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie Genève to open its doors, but here’s a peek at some of the timepieces that will be presented. From vintage-inspired to avant-garde designs, from traditional complications to those given a new twist, there’ll be something for every horological palate.
Moonphase Mania: A Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Moon Phase
The Lange 1 Moon Phase is equipped with a new movement that brings together a moon phase display and a day/night indicator, and features a twin barrel that guarantees 72 hours of autonomy.
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Moon phase & Retrograde Date
This classic timepiece features a moon phase with a retrograde date indicator presented across the upper arc of the dial. Equipped with a manufacture movement, the Patrimony Moon Phase & Retrograde Date bears the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva seal.
IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
The Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is IWC’s first attempt to combine a chronograph with a perpetual moon phase display, which is presented on a disc plated partly in silver, gold and dark blue. This new line revives the Da Vinci collection IWC introduced in the 1980s.
Baume & Mercier Promesse
This elegant new Promesse timepiece features a moon phase display and a bezel set with 30 brilliant-cut diamonds framing the watch’s deep blue lacquered dial.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Moon Medium
The timepiece was created specifically with the woman in mind, with its moderate 36mm-diameter dial featuring a delicate guilloche engraving and a diamond-encrusted bezel. The model comes in rose gold and steel.
Decorative Designs: Ulysse Nardin Hourstriker Pin-up
The dial of this beautiful timepiece features miniature paintings, one of which moves seductively when the hour-striker functions. The watch comes in rose gold or platinum, and only 28 of each will be produced.
Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Papillon Automate
The Maison continues its tradition of poetic complications with the Lady Arpels Papillon Automate timepiece, which features a fluttering butterfly automaton on a dial set with diamonds, sapphires, mother-of-pearl and enamel.
Christophe Claret Marguerite
This year’s iteration of the Marguerite gets a sparkling upgrade with more than 600 diamonds. Apart from telling the time beautifully, this fun watch allows you to indulge in a game of “He loves me… He loves me not.”
Richard Mille RM 07-01 Ladies
The jewelled case is made from NTPT carbon and rose gold. The watch features a newly designed crown that protects the calibre from improper winding, as it’s not connected to the heart of the movement.
Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes Vision
With its 43.5mm platinum case matched with a salmon-coloured gold dial, this is a beautifully packaged timepiece. Beating inside is a hand-wound movement with a patented tourbillon.
Value in Vintage: Panerai Radiomir 3 days Acciaio
A homage to the timepieces of the 1930s, this watch comes with a dial in black or shaded brown. It’s equipped with a hand-wound manufacture movement with an impressive 72-hour power reserve.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Frosted Gold
Created in collaboration with jewellery designer Carolina Bucci, the Royal Oak Frosted Gold is defined by its finish. The “frosted” effect is executed with an ancient gold-hammering process known as the Florentine technique.
Montblanc 1858 Chronograph Tachymeter Limited Edition
This timepiece is one of a trio of bronze watches added to the 1858 Collection, the first in the metal. The watch is vintage through and through—from the case design, details on the retro-vintage champagne dial, and the strap.
Parmigiani Tonda 1950 Set Galaxy
The shimmer of the midnight blue dial of the Tonda 1950 Galaxy is the result of the formation of copper inclusions that appear when aventurine glass is crushed and recomposed.
Piaget Altiplano Self-winding
The 43mm diameter of this classic timepiece emphasises the perfectly balanced lines of the Altiplano model. The watch is equipped with the fourth generation of Piaget’s ultra-thin self-winding movements, which is just 2.35mm thick.
Futurama: Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Minute Repeater
For the first time, Cartier combines the beautiful aesthetics of its mysterious movement with a minute repeater. The watch’s complex 448-part, open-work mechanism is contained in a case a mere 11.15mm thick.
MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual
This year sees two editions of the Legacy Machine Perpetual in white gold, one with a purple dial and the other grey. The timepiece features a fully integrated 581-component movement with a revolutionary new calendar system.
HYT Skull Axl Rose
Guns N’ Roses frontman Axl Rose has created the ultimate rock ’n’ roll timepiece, transforming HYT’s distinctive Skull by giving it a special Damascus steel treatment and applying blue PVD. On the back is an engraving of the band’s logo.
H Moser & Cie Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept
The deep emerald green dial of the Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept watch is decidedly minimalistic sans the logo and indices. It’s available in white and rose gold, with only 20 of each to be made.
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Quatuor Cobalt Micromelt
This bold interpretation of the Excalibur Quatuor comes with a cobalt chrome case that provides a striking contrast with the watch’s blue PVD-coated dial, hour-marker, bridges and strap.
This article was originally published in the January 2017 issue of Hong Kong Tatler