With pleasure, we returned to Caprice this year and when we left, it was as though chef Fabrice Vulin and his brigade had been serving the restaurant for decades. It’s a carefully choregraphed experience, where every silver service detail is adhered to and polished to a high shine. The menu has been refined and tweaked to reflect the chef’s personal style and point of view. The wines are, as always, still very fine indeed. And should you wish to skip cheeses in favour of desserts, we’d probably admonish you—a true Caprice experience isn’t complete without a little nibble at the fromage selection before moving onto new pastry chef Nicolas Lambert’s collection of haute desserts.
Caprice has become, at once, familiar and foreign. Foreign because each time we come here, chef Vulin has played a slightly different hand to excite our palates; familiar, because it has managed to maintain the same level of quality for countless years. The view out the window may have changed over time, but inside it’s still the same lovable French restaurant. Sometimes, we even choose the seats that face the open kitchen rather than those that have the ocean vista—observing the brigade of chefs, moving seamlessly and confidently like the finest of watch movements, can be hypnotising.
This year, we were impressed by the bounty of seafood that passed through Caprice’s kitchens. The freshest catch is paired with ingredients that make you sit up and take notice. Chef Vulin’s signature Gillardeau oysters in seawater jelly remains a classic—a prime example of a dish that has been perfected since the Frenchman joined the restaurant in late 2014.
Le Homard Bleu, a fun dish of Brittany blue lobster layered with refreshing and sweet watermelon with green apple and avocado, is artful and sublime. A consomme of tourteau crab reminds us of the intense superior stocks of the finest Chinese kitchens, but with a decisively European touch with lemon gnocchi. Should you find yourself missing dishes with an even richer flair, opt for the braised line-caught sea bass with fennel, marinated potatoes, and a cloak of creamy foie gras and sea urchin sauce.
It goes without saying that the wine list, crafted by head sommelier Sebastien Allano, is among the best in Hong Kong—giving us the perfect glass to toast Caprice’s continued success.
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