While most Hong Kongers believe Singapore to be its staid, tightly wound cousin, there is one area where Singapore clearly has the advantage: street food. Its clean hawker markets offer every flavour south-east Asia has to offer, taking inspiration from India, Malaysia, China, as well as more specific subgroups such as the Peranakan. And with the opening of Marina Bay Sands with its restaurants from the likes of Guy Savoy, Daniel Boulud, Tetsuya Wakuda and Jason Atherton, Singapore has truly made itself a gourmand’s destination.

Friday night
One of Singapore’s most famous specialities is chilli crab, which is always made with large, juicy Sri Lankan specimens. Mellben is an institution that attracts both locals and tourists alike. There are two branches in Singapore, but the one in Toa Payoh is currently closed for renovations until July 25, 2013, so the outlet on Ang Mo Kio Avenue is the one to head straight to, and early.


We say early as while Mellben is large, it does not take reservations, and you can easily find yourself queuing for over an hour on weekends. The must-order dishes are obviously the chilli crab, as well as the curry crab in a pot. The crustaceans come in three sizes (small, medium and large), and for a party of four, we would recommend ordering two medium crabs. Make sure to also order the delicious deep-fried mantou to soak up the delicious sauces.

232 Ang Mo Kio Avenue 3, Singapore. Tel: +65 6285-6762.

If you need to boogie to work off those crab calories, Ku De Ta atop the Marina Bay Sands is the place to go. Located right on the “boat” that balances on top of the casino and shopping mall, on a clear night you can enjoy not only the views along the river, but even spot Malaysia and Indonesia. But if a club is too hectic, then pay a visit to 28 Hong Kong Street, a cool bar that offers cocktails with names such as the Whore’s Bath (manuka honey vodka, umeshu, poire william and Hawaiian lava salt pickled ginger); giant punch bowls similar to the ones served in the 1850’s; and their own interpretations of classic cocktails, such as the Modest Mule with lemongrass-flavoured vodka and a pipette of Branca Menta.

Ku De Ta: 1 Bayfront Avenue, Marina Bay Sands, Singapore. Tel: +65 6688-7688.

28 Hong Kong Street: 28 Hongkong Street, Singapore. Tel: +65 6533-2001.

Saturday lunch


No visit to Singapore is complete without a visit to a hawker centre, and Maxwell and Newton Circus are two of the most popular. The former has the slight edge as it offers the popular Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice stall, where Gordon Ramsay recently took part in a cook-off against the famed stall (he lost by 6 per cent of votes). We personally found Tian Tian over-rated, but there are plenty of other purveyors to satiate your appetite. Just follow the locals, and order the smallest portions from each stall so you can find your own favourites. A hawker centre is best visited with a group, so you can try all the delicacies, such as laksa; popiah (a soft crepe filled with mostly vegetables and spice); chai tow kway (fried radish cake); and oyster omelettes.

1 Kadayanallur Street, Singapore.

 
Saturday night
Though not Singaporean, chef Andre Chiang is probably one of the most famous chefs in this city-state. Born in Taipei with over 15 years training in French temples of gastronomy including Restaurant Bras, Triosgros and L’Astrance, Chiang opened his own epynonymous Restaurant Andre in Singapore in 2010. Every night at Andre offers an eight-course set menu, which is planned according to his “Octaphilosophy”, essentially eight characteristics such as pure, salt, texture or memory. The menu changes often, but there seem to be a few mainstays, such as an amuse bouche of crispy chicken skin rubbed with masala; or the popular foie gras custard dish with truffle broth that is served during the “memory” course.


Having spent most of his career in the south of France, Chiang’s menu is usually about seventy percent seafood, and although both the foie gras dish and the main of Chalon duck were delicious, simply cooked seafood was where the chef really shone. Our favourite was the “salt” dish, which actually did not include any salt at all, and was a shrimp tartar, hidden under a vibrantly green gelee. The flavour of the dish comes from the bits of seaweed, as well as a foam made from Gillardeau oyster juice. A meal at Andre is not cheap, usually between 300 to 400 Singaporean dollars per person (including wine), but it is truly a taste of world-class dining.

41 Bukit Pasoh Road, Singapore. Tel: +65 6534-8880.

 
Sunday lunch


From one star chef to another, Jason Atherton’s Pollen is also worth a visit. Located within the Flower Dome at the Gardens by the Bay, the two-storey restaurant is a beautiful place to dine. Daily lunch sets are a bargain at 55 Singaporean dollars for three courses, while one of the most outstanding dishes from the a la carte menu is a starter of chilled Scottish lobster topped with sea urchin, floating in a cold fennel cream. Also served alongside is an adorable mini lobster roll, and a hot consomme of lobster in a wine glass. After lunch, make sure to save some time to have a stroll in the Flower Dome greenhouse itself.

Flower Dome, Gardens by the Bay, 18 Marina Gardens Drive, Singapore. Tel: +65 6604-9988.