Because the City of Light never gets old

Paris is a beast to tackle when it comes to any city guide, thanks to its centuries-long hold on the imagination and a uniquely formidable agglomeration of the world's best minds in gastronomy, both haute and not. With the countless lists and recommendations on where to dine out in Paris, including the Michelin Guide, World’s 50 Best Restaurants and La Liste, where does one start navigating the gastronomic scene in Paris? 

We’ve distilled some delightful dining options here that don’t break the bank. These brasseries and fine dining restaurants are quintessentially French and also regular haunts of French chefs, with a mix of new discoveries and classic institutions.

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1. For the last word in gastronomic luxury, Hotel de Crillon

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Above Bar Les Ambassadeurs (Photo: Hôtel de Crillon)

When it comes to experiencing the culinary delights of Paris, the legendary Hôtel de Crillon is as good as it gets for gastronomes looking for the best in Parisian luxury. Inhabiting a palatial building that dates back to 1758, this Rosewood Hotels property has hosted the likes of Theodore Roosevelt, Winston Churchill, Madonna, Taylor Swift, and Roger Federer, but its foodie credentials have really been given a lift with this year's opening of Nonos and Comestibles par Paul Pairet, a French grill restaurant and deli launched by the Shanghai-based chef behind the three-Michelin-starred Ultraviolet. 

Focusing on French gourmet classics—think escargots, onion soups, saucy steaks, egg mimosas, seafood platters, pâtés from around France and racks of beef cut tableside on a carving trolley—Nonos evokes the homey comforts of nostalgic Gallic cooking in a counterpoint to the fine dining that the clientele at Hôtel de Crillon are no doubt used to. Meanwhile, the deli offerings at Comestibles offer an even more casual way to indulge, whether it be oysters, charcuterie, salads or sandwiches, washed down with an impressive selection of classic and modern cocktails.

Nonos and Comestibles par Paul Pairet join the one-Michelin-starred L’Écrin, which offers a wine-forward tasting menu based on the diners' choice of wines and number of courses; and the Jardin d’Hiver, an all-day restaurant that evokes the high teas of yore with its palatial proportions and Le Goûter des Lords tea set. Rosewood's signature Butterfly Patisserie can also be found inside the hotel, offering exquisite pastries, cakes and chocolates by head pastry chef Matthieu Carlin, while the Bar Les Ambassadeurs, which boasts views of Place de la Concorde from its Versailles-like interiors, is as sultry as it gets when it comes to landmark Parisian watering holes.

Hôtel de Crillon, a Rosewood Hotel, 10 Place de la Concorde, 75008 Paris, France; +33 1 44 71 15 00, rosewoodhotels.com

2. For city and people-watching, Le Tout Paris

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Above Le Tout Paris (Photo: Handout)

Found on the top floor or the swanky Cheval Blanc hotel, Le Tout Paris is a stylish, see-and-be-seen restaurant and bar—as venues with stunning city views so often are. Against the backdrop of the Seine and the Eiffel Tower, guests can start with sunset cocktails before moving to the Art Deco-inspired dining room awash in warm, primary tones for a menu of contemporary brasserie dishes, including gambero rosso carpaccio with limono-coral sorbet, and grilled meats and seafood dishes like blue lobster in béarnaise sauce. The plates for two make Le Tout Paris even more amenable for romantic dates: the sole Meunière with mashed potatoes and black olives is sure to impress.

Le Tout Paris, 7/F, Cheval Blanc Paris, 8 Quai du Louvre, 75001 Paris, France; +33 179355022

3. For farm-to-table cocktails, Little Red Door

Cocktail lovers can't go wrong at Little Red Door, the forward-thinking den in Marais that has over the years honed its message of sustainable mixology. In its latest menu, Little Red Door spotlights recipes based around a single ingredient sourced from local, small-scale farms found around the French capital; current libations include Plum, featuring an in-house plum amaro, Caprelous eau-de-vie Damson and Pierre Richard's Macvin aperitif, as well as the Holy Basil, which mixes a distillate of the traditionally Southeast Asian herb with a cool herb infusion and a hint of Sylvester pine.

Little Red Door, 60 Rue Charlot, 75003 Paris, France; lrdparis.com

4. Where the tableware is as fine as the food, Cristal Room

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Above Photo: Gavin Yeung/Tatler Dining
Tatler Asia
Above Photo: Gavin Yeung/Tatler Dining

Baccarat's maison on the Place des États-Unis is an unmissable destination for glassware and tableware fanatics, and what better place to put the famed Baccarat crystal to the test than the Cristal Room? Found in a gilded, brick-walled space chock-full of priceless chandeliers and statement vases, the Cristal Room serves reinterpreted French classics that bring as much flavour to the table as they do eye candy. Pick from the likes of gazpacho and piquillos stuffed with fresh goat cheese, and monkfish with peppered artichokes and cockles. A number of signature and classic cocktails are also available for a private tête à tête.

Cristal Room, Baccarat Paris, 11 Place des Etats-Unis, 75116 Paris; +33 0140221110

5. For fine dining at brasserie prices, Tomy & Co

Chef Tomy Gousset’s eponymous restaurant has served up fine food in a cosy environment in the 7th arrondissement since 2017. Gousset was the former chef at Pirouette after passing through the kitchens of Le Meurice and Daniel Boulud in New York. Order the chef’s menu and discover perfectly executed dishes, the flavours and textures delicately layered and speaking volumes of the chef’s refined cooking techniques. The sommelier recommendations are fabulous; some notable wines we had were the Saint Romain from Alain Gras and “Le temps est vent” from Stephane Ogier. Here, you’ll enjoy a stellar gastro experience in Paris at brasserie prices.

Tomy & Co, 22 Rue Surcouf, 75007 Paris, France;  +33 145514693

6. For the old guard, Le Taillevent

This two-Michelin-starred restaurant (formerly three) is an institution in Paris, remaining a popular dining spot for French politicians—given it also has one of the best wine cellars in France, it’s unsurprising. Chef Alain Soliveres has a few signature dishes you should definitely keep in mind: the langoustines "boudin" with chanterelle mushrooms and summer truffle. And definitely consider the signature pithivier: changing seasonally, previous variations have included sweetbread with black truffle. Fun fact: the animated film Ratatouille is based on the kitchen at Taillevent. 

Le Taillevent, 15 Rue Lamennais, 75008 Paris, France;  +33 144951501

7. For French food with an Asian twist, Astrance

One of the most reasonably priced two-star restaurants by Parisian standards, the 25-seat Astrance is open five days a week and closed over the summer, with a long reservation list throughout the year. A protégé of Alain Passard (of L’Aperge), chef Pascal Barbot presents perfectly executed seasonal produce with a variety of Asian twists inspired by his travels. There is no menu; ordering the French version of an omakase will ensure that you are served the day’s best produce from the markets made in Passard’s tiny kitchen. The chef is best known for his mushroom millefeuille, comprising thinly sliced raw mushrooms with foie gras sandwiched between each layer—each bite is beautifully earthy, with just enough acidity from lemon zest and slices of granny smith apples. A three-course lunch sets you back €125, and the full tasting menu at €285. I often opt for the wine pairing to discover some more interesting labels. 

Astrance, 32 Rue de Longchamp, 75116 Paris, France;  +33140508440   

8. For a no-frills brasserie experience, L’Assiette

This brasserie serves simple and perfectly executed classic dishes by chef David Rathgeber, an alumnus of the Alain Ducasse group, and it’s not unusual to see top chefs from around the world gathering here for meals when they are in Paris. Everything on the menu is seasonal and the ingredients are allowed to shine through simple preparations. The modest menu has all the brasserie classics, from cassoulet to escargots. Our recommendations are the scallops with champagne sauce, pâté en croute and the soufflé for dessert. 

L'Assiette, 181 Rue du Château, 75014 Paris, France;  +33 143 226486

9. For a taste of history, Le Chardenoux

Le Chardenoux is a historic brasserie that opened in 1908—and today, its original mirrors, ceiling murals and woodwork have remained intact. After changing hands several times, celebrity chef Cyril Lignac is the latest to take over the space, and he has turned it around with his modern take on classic French food. Stand out dishes include typical brasserie fare such as beef entrecote and veal fricassee. The wine list ranges from small wine producers to expensive bottles, and the sommelier can offer interesting suggestions for food pairings. If you’re dining alone, book a seat at the bar counter and take in the Parisian bistro vibe. Don’t miss out on classic desserts such as the Paris-Brest and chocolate soufflé. 

Le Chardenoux, 1 Rue Jules Vallès, 75011 Paris, France;  +33 143714952


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