Ecriture’s Maxime Gilbert Launches Wild Game Menu This Winter
Hong Kong may not have a hunting season for game meats, but in Europe and North America, autumn and winter are two seasons where hunting is widely practised. The seasons’ finest wild game, from hare to grouse and deer, make a seasonal treat at the table. Ecriture, a Tatler Dining Top 20 restaurants honoree, is marking the return of its wild game menu with new innovative dishes featuring freshly hunted meats and an exclusive harvest of Japanese seafood.
Ecriture has long impressed gastronomes with refined French dishes, notably with its highly Instagrammable caviar and sea urchin tart and a collection of desserts crafted by local pastry duo Tia Cheung and Cyrus Yan. The wild game tasting menu will showcase the best of seasonal ingredients from the cooler months.
The menu begins with Premices, a series of starters such as small pithiviers filled with venison and hare; grouse and bonito ham on brioche with XO sauce; a foie gras-infused doe consommé and a shaved ‘bambi-bushi’ made from young venison. The menu proceeds with grouse and Galinette, a traditional galatine of the game bird and red gurnard fish served with a clarified jelly of both meats, lovage cream and white truffles. The game menu goes on to showcase the season’s most exclusive wild treats, from partridge, sustainable bonito, Japanese spear squid, to wild hare and young doe.
The menu is complete with two desserts—titled Quince and White Truffle Chocolate. The quince is an exotic apple which is astringent at its raw state, but softens with a brownish pink blush and a heady, almost floral aroma when cooked. Cheung and Yan, pastry chefs at Ecriture, transformed the fruit into a sweet compote and sorbet, served alongside a sweet beetroot salad. The white truffle chocolate dessert complements yeast ice cream with sake lees ganache, caramelised koji, white chocolate, and shavings of white truffles from Alba, Italy. The new wild game tasting menu is priced at HK$2,888 per person, with an optional wine pairing package featuring some of the world’s most exclusive labels such as Jacques Selosse Cote des Blancs Blanc de Noir Grand Cru NV; Chateau Rayas Southern Rhone Valley 1999; and Chateau Lafite Rothschild Bordeaux Grand Cru Classe de Pauillac 2008. The additional nine-glass wine pairing package is priced at HK$4,000 per person.
The new nine-course wild game tasting menu offers a glimpse into a different set of wild ingredients not often served in many restaurants in Hong Kong. The menu allows Gilbert to up his game with new techniques and execution.