Brie cheese could be facing extinction

The future of soft cheese is in a funk

According to the French National Centre for Scientific Research, the world is in the midst of a cheese crisis. Despite blue cheeses facing similar peril, beloved soft cheeses encased in milky rinds are the category most at risk—unfortunately for brie and camembert.

While many of us (this writer included) might fret over the future of cheese boards, the root of this calamity is the real cause for concern. On the frontlines of the impending fromage fatality is an increasing scarcity of penicillium camemberti, the strain of fungi relied on by familiar French cheeses.

The origins of soft cheese

Above Camembert with figs, grapes, and crackers (Photo: Getty Images)

Above Baked brie with thyme and bread (Photo: Getty Images)

Wheels of brie and camembert exist as unique ecosystems, home to small armies of microbes that turn milk fat and proteins into the gooey cheeses we know and love.

Penicillium biforme was traditionally used in cheesemaking, to the dismay of cheesemakers who valued consistency. The strain was notorious for dyeing cheese rinds green, grey, or orange, and contributing to a distinct pungency. The 1800s saw the isolation of penicillium camemberti—an offshoot of the original strain—to prevent this unpredictability, homogenising brie and camembert into their white-rinded, inoffensive-tasting selves.

Brie is typically larger than camembert and aged for longer (Photo: Getty Images)

Above A sliced wheel of brie (Photo: Getty Images)

The strain became quickly revered for its consistent results, taking over the cheesemaking world. For generations, uniformity was maintained by cloning a single sample of penicillium camemberti. The current, modified version of the strain cannot reproduce naturally. To create more of the spore, cheesemakers must clone a clone. As with any form of inbreeding, this has led to harmful genetic mutations.

Most French cheeses exported across the globe depend exclusively on penicillium camemberti, lending to the foods’ current instability.

Genetic diversity

Above Cheese with a white rind, produced by a specific strain of fungi (Photo: Unsplash)

Genetic modification is not uncommon. It is one of the most constant processes in the realm of agriculture, allowing seasonal produce to be grown and harvested year round. Genetic variation, however, is innate to the survival of both plant and animal species. The rapid degradation of a bacteria strain required for cheesemaking, while alarming, poses a much wider problem. Adaptability has been compromised.

Above Apples in a supermarket (Photo: Getty Images)

Above Bananas were once smaller with bigger seeds, similar to wild-growing Asian varieties (Photo: Getty Images)

Without adequate diversity in any species, the chance of pre-existing weaknesses permeating through generations increases. In a world battling an ongoing climate crisis, this means crops bred for taste and appearance instead of durability have little chance of surviving warming temperatures.

The same goes for disease. Common produce lining supermarket aisles are, more often than not, genetically alike. If a disease were to evolve to infect one fruit or vegetable, it could decimate an entire species.

Don’t miss: 7 tips to make healthier diet decisions in 2024

To brie or not to brie?

Above Brie served with crusty bread (Photo: Getty Images)

Ironically, France’s cheesemaking industry has bolstered efforts to produce penicillium biforme, the strain once discarded entirely. The availability of the brie and camembert we have become familiar with will wane, but that doesn’t mean bidding adieu to soft cheeses entirely.

Consumers are being encouraged to adapt their palates to the antecedents of these modern day soft cheeses. The use of an antiquated strain is bound to affect the flavour profile and appearance of cheese, so expect to see funkier cheeses in the not-so-distant future.

Above A selection of French cheeses (Photo: Getty Images)

Above A cheese board with the usual fixings (Photo: Getty Images)

For those partial to robust varieties, you’re in luck. White rinds may instead be grey or green, and signature mushroomy accords may be amplified.

Don’t worry—brie and camembert are merely reverting to their pre-genetically modified selves while fostering a much-needed increase in microbial diversity. It may be time to reconsider your go-to cheese board fixings.

NOW READ

Brewing tradition: Shaun Chang on fusing modernity and heritage with sparkling tuak

Food miniaturist Eric Siow evokes nostalgic memories through his sculptures

A food lover’s guide to Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Best of Tatler Asia video highlights

Featured videos from around Tatler Asia: Get exclusive behind-the-scenes look at the interviews we do, the events we attend, the shoots we produce, and the incredibly important people who are part of our community