Singapore has no shortage of Japanese restaurants, but the most memorable opening for me this year is Zeniya Singapore—and for good reason. The first international outpost of the two‑Michelin‑starred kaiseki restaurant from Kanazawa, Japan, is led by second‑generation chef‑owner Shinichiro Takagi and serves up Kaga cuisine, which follows the shun no ri principle. This means only procuring peak seasonal ingredients from Kanazawa and its surrounding regions to craft the 11‑course omakase menu. The kitchen is helmed by head chef Shuji Yoshitaki and sous chef Akinori Nakano, both of whom have worked with Takagi, to ensure that the dining experience in the Singapore outpost closely resembles the one in Kanazawa. The meal here is almost like a sacred ritual, which begins with a traditional tea ceremony and a small pour of kanpai sake to toast to the special meal. What follows is a parade of Japan’s seasonal bounty and indigenous vegetables from Kanazawa, skilfully prepared in various ways to let their natural flavours shine through.

—Dudi Aureus, senior dining editor 

Zeniya Singapore
Address: 22 Orange Grove Road, 24/F Shangri-La Singapore, S(258350), +65 6213 4571

Read more: 14 new restaurants and bars to try this December in Singapore 2023

Singapore has plenty of stuffy Japanese restaurants and thank heavens Shoukouwa Shinjidai isn’t one of them. In fact, it stands out most to me by straying far from tradition and singing a wildly different tune: think unconventional combinations of flavours and textures, unapologetic high energy and a heavy sprinkle of anarchy inspired by punk rock. Headlined by culinary heavyweights Emmanuel Stroobant and Kazumine Nishida of two-Michelin-starred restaurants Saint Pierre and Shoukouwa respectively, the modern kaiseki restaurant runs like a well‑oiled machine despite having opened only in October. Each course is named after popular soft rock and pop hits, mimicking the playlist in the background. Sweet Child O’ Mine features indulgent kegani (hairy crab) in crab roe sauce and pickled watermelon radish; Like a Virgin presents a series of succulent sashimi with unconventional toppings; and Comfortably Numb stars buttery rice redolent of aromatic black winter truffles and earthy wild mushrooms. Leave your trust in the trio of skilful young chefs, who spent time under either Stroobant or Nishida’s wing, to weave elegance and bold flavours into artful plates.

—Dawson Tan, assistant dining editor 

Shoukouwa Shinjidai
Address: 1 Cuscaden Road, 01-03/04 Conrad Singapore, S(249715), +65 8010 9939

It may have opened only this October, but Araya, helmed by the husband‑and‑wife duo, Francisco Araya (who perfects the menu) and Fernanda Guerrero (who crafts the bread and pastries), has quickly stolen my heart with its sincere and elevated renditions of South American flavours; every dish here is perfectly balanced and bursting with flavour. Take the ceviche: while the dish typically consists of slices or chunks of raw fish marinated in leche de tigre, Araya presents shio koji‑marinated Hokkaido scallops served with tiger’s milk sorbet and ginger jelly, making for a refreshing appetiser. Produce from South America takes centre stage here, including the oca, an Andean tuber served here with chutoro (medium fatty tuna) and N25 Oscietra caviar. Expect, too, tributes to comfort food such as Wagyu empanadas, and desserts made with a range of tropical fruits. Give it a little time to mature fully, but don’t be surprised if you see Araya popping up on best‑of lists.

—Ethan Kan, dining writer

Araya
Address: 83 Neil Road, 01-08 Mondrian Singapore Duxton, S(089813), +65 8870 0871

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