Sweet and sour pork with fresh pineapple was on point, as strips of pork neck were tossed in the wok with fresh strawberries and yellow bell pepper, with cut chunks of sweet pineapple blowtorched with caramelized edges. We would, however, think tossing the pineapple with the pork would have made a much better, and properly prepared Cantonese staple.

Proudly recommended to us was the honey-glazed barbecued Iberico char siu, served on a curved vessel being warmed on a small burner. Good char siu should feature a sweet glaze with the right fat-lean ratio to the meat. She’s version was not quite there yet. The Iberico was tender, but lacked flavour and as the saucy glaze was warmed up, it quickly caught in the heat and burnt, turning the overall sauce bitter.

Stir-fried premium soy sauce noodles with bean sprouts did not fare well either. While the techniques of tossing such noodles in the wok required much skillful discipline, and She excelled as such without overindulging in oil, it was overseasoned throughout and some of the noodles were undercooked. Crispy fried egg dough arrived doused in a thin honey glaze, turning what may have been crisp and ethereal into tough knots of pale, lukewarm fried dough.

It is reassuring to see She offering a good selection of Chinese teas, with a handful of premium varieties such as Bi Luo Chun green tea and Da Hong Pao (Big Red Robe tea), we ordered a pot of Pu-erh to share and it arrived just a hint warmer than tepid. We switched to booze instead. The wine list was moderately priced with a good range of wine-by-the-glass options, and the bottle selection is predominantly French and Italian with a handful from Australia and New Zealand.

Service needs work at She, as we resorted to walk-in having failed to get through the restaurant’s phone line. As it turns out the host confirmed they ‘rarely answer to phone bookings’. The service team needs better familiarity on the establishment’s food and beverage offerings as they show little knowledge over either. They were, however, pleasant and courteous throughout the meal, if not overly so at times, cracking jokes between missing orders and leaving out serving utensils.

With a convenient location and a great terrace within its perimeters, She over-accessorises with its contemporary Chinese cuisine which lacked foundation, and boasts on pledging on sustainability by banning single-use plastics, meanwhile serving shark’s fins as its signature dish. The establishment may look the part with polished style in the name of fashion, but like any great style, we could only wish She does not need to try so hard.

A meal for two with drinks and service amounts to HK$1,400. 

How we rate
Each of our reviewers score restaurants based on four main criteria: setting, food, service, and drinks, taking into account more than 35 different points of reference including manners of staff, usefulness of the wine list, and whether or not the restaurant makes an effort to be environmentally aware. 5/5 indicates an exceptional experience; 4-4.5/5 is excellent; 3-3.5/5 is good to very good; and 2.5/5 or lower is average to below average. Before visiting a restaurant, the reviewers will book using a pseudonym and do not make themselves known to restaurant staff, in order to experience the venue as a regular guest—if this is not possible, or if we are recognised, we will indicate this in the review.