Chef Umberto Bombana of Otto e Mezzo explains how Italian wines have an affinity with truffle

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The Piedmont area in northern Italy is known for its white truffles – “white gold”, or, as it was once designated in the Middle Ages, “rich man’s garlic”. Alba is almost synonymous with the expensive fungi (much like Perigord region in France for black truffle), and it is in La Morra, its neighbour in Piedmont, where chef Umberto Bombana of one of Central’s best Italian restaurants, 8½ Otto e Mezzo, goes foraging for the pungent treats nearly every autumn.

 

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Any Italian chef worth his salt, he says, will eventually make a pilgrimage to Piedmont for white truffle – if not, then at least for its acclaimed restaurants and legendary wines. “Piedmont is one of the most important regions for food, wine and truffles,” insists Bombana. “So if you do this line of work, somehow you end up there every few years, especially the Barolo region for the king of wines, and Alba for the truffle mercato.”

Bombana is a strong advocate for the idea that "what grows together, goes together”. The white truffles of Piedmont are, thus, the ideal match for the mighty Barolo and Barbaresco wines, both borne from the nebbiolo grape, a signature of the region.

See what our wine expert, James Suckling, made of the 2007 Barolo Campé

Barolo, often described as “the king of wines” is deep in tannins, and those from the vineyards of La Morra and Barolo in the Central Valley are seen to be even more velvety and smooth than others, such as those produced in Serralunga d’Alba or Castiglione Falletto.

 

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“Usually, we pair white truffle with these drier wines from the Piedmont region,” Bombana explains. “The nebbiolo grape goes very well with the aroma of truffles.” So, to go with the richer, creamier dishes on the menu – such as the restaurant’s classic white truffle risotto, a decadent mix incorporating Taleggio, mascarpone, Parmesan and fontina cheeses – a dry Barolo or Barbaresco would work perfectly. “These wines make the palate very, very dry, so it works with the richness of the dish.”

Learn how to make Bombana’s white truffle risotto in our Epicurean Express video


In addition, Bombana and Otto e Mezzo's restaurant manager, Danilo Nicoletti, have also picked out their top three wines to pair with white truffles: 

“Bussiador" Langhe Chardonnay 2009, Poderi Aldo Conterno
"This is a very complex chardonnay from Piedmont, combining different layers of flavours including white chocolate, exotic fruits, cream and toasted almonds with persistent minerality, and soft yet lengthy tannins. All these flavours combine very well with the complex, earthy and garlicky taste of white truffle."

Barbaresco “Le Rocche del Falletto” 1997, Bruno Giacosa
"This is a very vegetal Nebbiolo “Cru” from Piedmont produced from one of the most important vineyards of the Barbaresco area. Aromatic with hints of mint, sage and orange zest, it matches the earthy taste of white truffles."

“Krafuss“ Pinot Noir 2007, Alois Lageder
"Pinot noir is always a great choice with white truffles, because it's very elegant, fruity and has good freshness and acidity. Krafuss comes from the Alto Adige area and is today considered one of the best expressions of Italian pinot noir, which has a taste between old and new world."

“You have to be very sensitive to balance,” Bombana concludes. “The acidity of the wine has to be very low, so a strong red wine for example wouldn’t go very well with truffle.”

 

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