The follow-up from Flower Drum serves Chengdu-style Sichuan fare with some rusty trimmings
Nansen Lai, the proprietor of the refined Cantonese establishment Flower Drum in Wan Chai, has set eyes on Sichuan, exploring the possibilities of Chengdu-style cuisine, noted for its vibrancy of spices but not overpoweringly fiery dishes.
Jing Alley’s understated entrance welcomes guests with a brick-lined walls, leading everyone into a rather dim and petite ground floor space with booth seating on both sides and small four-tops set in the middle. The lighting was dimmer than most Chinese restaurants, and the monotonous grey brick-finish of the interiors seemed rather unflattering to the overall ambience. A light playlist of jazz, however, helped set the overall mood of the dining experience.
Jing Alley’s Sichuan fare leans towards Chengdu-style rather than the more common Chongqing-style. The latter relies potent spices that often result in sending shockwaves of chilli heat to the palate with alternating sensations of tickling heat and numbing from Sichuan peppercorns. Chengdu-style fare, however, is more about flavours working in harmony. Dishes can be hot with chillies but less on dominating in intensity, but rather polished and more subtle.