In just a few weeks’ time, PMQ in Central will see the launch of two large-scale restaurant projects by the acclaimed Paolo Casagrande, under the mentorship of the great Martin Berasategui. Ahead of the launch, we sat down to speak to both chefs on their partnership in the kitchen, and what they envision for the future of Spanish cuisine.

Hong Kong Tatler Dining: Martin, you’ve been working in the restaurant industry since you were in your teens. What drives you, and what is your motivation?

Martin Berasetegui: Get up earlier, and work harder – there’s no other secret. I’ve devoted my entire life to the art of gastronomy, but I couldn’t have made it without my family. I was 15 when I decided to be chef. At that moment, my family – an ordinary middle class family in San Sebastian, Northern Spain –owned a bodegón (a typical undergroundcanteen found in many Spanish villages. I was used to the heat of the stoves and charcoal ovens and dealing with customers since I was a child. One night, when the working day was over I sat in front of my mother and my aunt to inform them I wanted to take over the restaurant, so they could have an easier life. My mother accepted it so I started working the next morning. It was 1am when we finished. My mother came to me and said: “It will be like this everyday of your life. You still want to take over?” Guess what my answer was [laughs].

Paolo Casagrande: You see, he is still crazy about cuisine. I admire his passion, even after so many years, and after all the fame and international recognition. He could have been resting on his laurels but, even now, he is still the first to get to the restaurant. It’s hard to believe, but he is still hungry for much more.

 

HKT: Now, with Vasco and Isono opening soon, what does the master have to say to his student? And vice versa?

MB: I’m certain that Paolo is one of the best chefs in the world. I’ve never met a more knowledgeable, polite, natural and authentic person. He is perfect. The remarkable success he has already achieved is nothing compared with he will be capable doing in a few years.

PC: [Laughs] You do exaggerate! Martin is an extraordinary chef but even a better person. Working hand in hand with him is a one-in-a-life lucky chance that I’ve been given. He makes you grow both professionally and personally. He perseveres without limits.

 

HKT: It seems like there is no rivalry at all between the two of you.

MB: Cuisine is a universal art. There’s no room for competition between us. How would you describe with words the smell of fresh roses? Hard, isn’t? That’s exactly what Paolo does with his cooking. He describes with high cuisine the indescribable sensations that can’t be expressed by words. They must be experienced by your six senses.

 

HKT: Are you coming together to Hong Kong?

PC: No, not exactly. Martin is part of the PMQ project and helps with great support and priceless ideas but Isono and Vasco are the first restaurants under my own command.

MB: But, I’d love to come to Hong Kong any time, of course! Hong Kong is a miraculous place. When I was there in 2009 and twice last year, I discovered how sophisticated and knowledgeable the customers are. Sadly, being a chef is a very demanding job, so we are now extremely busy at Lasarte (in Barcelona) so we have no chance to travel as much as we would love to.

 

 

HKT: So you said the future of Spanish is bright. What do you envision for the cuisine in the coming years?

MB: In 20 years’ time, Spanish cuisine will have the same – if not more – relevance as French cuisine. I’m completely sure about it. It will conquer the whole world. We’re developing revolutionary, sharp techniques, that when applied to the kitchen will change many misconceptions.

PC: French and Spanish cuisine share the same roots. People attach the concept of tapas to Spanish cuisine. But tapas are just a small tiny fraction of the deep, mature and well-rounded cuisine of Spain.

 

HKT: Any advice for the new generation of chefs?

MB: Be brave, don’t fear anything. Being respectful, humble and hard working means there’s no place you can’t conquer. Whatever is worthwhile it’s not easy. Get up earlier, and work harder.

 

Find out more about Isono and Vasco in our opening news here