The restaurant opened by chef Marco Sacco of two Michelin-starred Piccolo Lago in Verbania is quiet but powerful, picking up a legion of dedicated fans searching for the rich flavours of northern Italy
A good meal can negate a bad day; an exceptional one can send you to another time, another space. These days, in Hong Kong, it can seem almost trivial to pore over menus and cast a critical eye over dishes when far more is at stake outside the realm of restaurant reviewing. But life pushes on, and to be actively grateful to experience the joy of dining and to be in a position to spread the good news of venues worth supporting is, in itself, a silver lining. Castellana, which quietly opened at the beginning of summer, brings promises of Piedmont’s culinary richness that are designed to cosset and comfort—one cannot think about the area without calling to mind the intoxicating aroma of its truffles, the deep and robust profiles of its Barolos and Barbarescos, and the richness and butter that courses through the veins of its gastronomic offerings.
Behind the venue is Marco Sacco, of two Michelin-starred Piccolo Lago in Verbania—a picturesque fine dining restaurant overlooking the still waters of Lake Mergozzo and Montorfano (the “orphan mountain”). Staying true to the culinary identity of the Piedmont region, Castellana integrates not only the signature dishes of Piccolo Lago into the menu in Hong Kong, but presents two other tasting menus that highlight the region’s signature ingredients and preparations as well as a highly seasonal degustation. The menus are executed superbly by head chef Enrico Degani.
The venue itself is muted and, if truth be told, not terribly exciting but elegant nonetheless—shades of beige wood, bronze and leather provide a simple backdrop to the cuisine, with prominent wine cellars and an art deco-esque gate sectioning off parts of the room. Being Hong Kong, the restaurant peers into the coldly lit offices of Lee Garden Three across the road, rather than over crystal lake waters, so it’s best to focus on what’s on your plate instead.
The sleek presentation and pared down portions of the tasting menu dishes belie the intensity and richness of the flavours, in a successful modernisation of traditional Piemontese dishes. Freshwater lake fish features prominently, in the form of a small smoked tranche of trout that is given mouth-puckering acidity by way of a raspberry gel, and a quenelle of creamed fish that has the texture of airy fish floss. A classic beef tartare is given a new lease of life, served in a spoon with a generous pour of Fassona beef broth and pickled carrots and onions; we’re instructed to take bites of the tartare with spoonfuls of the clear consommé, and the effect is both comforting and novel. The combination of raw Fassona beef (which has a light, sweet flavour compared to other breeds of cattle) and hot broth is almost Asian in profile and a clean-tasting, satisfying starter. It provides a good primer for refreshing the palate in preparation for the remainder of the meal, which consists of richer and more unctuous flavours and textures.
