Restaurant Review: Nathan Green’s Chops Are Not The Only Things Worthy Of Your Consideration At Rosewood’s Henry
A successful restaurant often relies on a good concept, but essentially what sets an establishment apart often comes down to the minute details. At Henry, Rosewood Hong Kong’s new steak restaurant and grill house, we see evidence of good beef raised right and taken care of from farm to table.
Still, why does Hong Kong need another steakhouse, with a long list of reputable establishments such as as Beefbar, Grand Hyatt Steakhouse, and The Steakhouse at InterContinental Hong Kong right next door? Our love for meat has never been stronger—and not a reaction to the rise of the healthy, plant-based eating trend. Rather, we have become more aware of what we are eating, and that includes increasing familiarity of where our meat comes from and how they are cooked. With that in mind, Henry excels in such arrangement, as guests are introduced to meats and their producers with great description offered by the service team.
USDA prime and dry-aged steaks from the USA. Tomahawks are great but you’ll need at least four very hungry adults to enjoy that. Rib-eyes, tenderloins, and striploins, however, are very reliable choices. While it’s a shame Henry took their flank steak from Idaho’s Snake River Farm off the menu and replaced with the less marbled and meatier rump steak, it was cooked exactly right on the grill with a medium rare doneness and an extra charred exterior. The rib-eye steak from 44 Farms in Texas, also medium rare, highlight the higher but still manageable marbling, which retains the richness in the meat thanks to the final three-month all-grain diet on the grass-fed cattle before they were turned into steaks; we would take this over wagyu any day. Enjoy the steaks as they are and skip the sauces, as they can overpower the meat. If seasoning is required, then have some Maldon salt. The staff is happy to bring both the ordinary and the smoked varieties.
The steak itself is a good reason to visit Henry, but chef Nathan Green has more chops to offer at his latest project. Revisiting his roots in butchery after his brief stint at the Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong, Henry marks more of a homecoming to Green, a new chapter built on the legacy of the short-lived Rhoda in Sai Ying Pun. You can see the resemblance between the two restaurants: heavy on the meats, light refreshing appetisers such as an amazing raw Hokkaido scallop and blue prawn with pink peppercorn and ginger-lime relish; and the butcher’s shop terrine served with chutney and pickles. Other meat dishes are not to be overlooked—the seven pepper beef brisket served with espresso barbecue sauce is thinly carved but richly imbued with smoky flavour and is truly an unctuous treat. The free-range chicken with tomatillo and ancho chili sauce is a Mexican twist on Green’s previous Rhoda signature roast chicken. The bird at Henry is large enough for sharing.
We found it difficult to choose our sides, with a wide selection of carb options from fried rice to mash and fries. The pumpkin succotash is beautifully prepared with Anson Mills farro. The Jimmy Red corn grits is a must, a creamy porridge of white corn kernels cooked down into a refreshing alternative to mash.
After the steak, you can stop right here, or have a drink and decide whether there is room for dessert. The spirits selection is impressive, particularly on whiskies and bourbon, predominantly American with a handful from Japan. Mezcal and tequila fans will find comfort in Henry’s offerings. Classic cocktails are back on trend, and not with an Asian twist: have a refreshing Paloma to clean your palate, or an Old Fashioned made with Woodford reserve bourbon to sip through dinner, a good pairing with steaks we found. Henry is championing American wines, with an abundance by the glass and bottles available. Look for the sommelier to introduce the wine specials du jour, as the restaurant opens selections such as natural wines or rare producers every day, most of which are off menu small producers that can be a rare treat, and something extra to enhance the experience.
Baked Alaska is a good dessert to be shared, but corn bread souffle is wonderful with bourbon caramel, vanilla ice cream and bacon bits. Green has relaunched his cheesecake from Rhoda, paired with tonka bean-marinated cherries. A digestive or nightcap is always welcomed.
Full for both seatings even on weeknights, Henry’s success is proof that even with a great concept and ingredients, it’s the extra effort to curate and execute a fine dining experience with close attention to details that elevates a restaurant into the upper ranks. The great interior helps, and attentive service benefits, but it’s the small elements as taking good care of the guests with consistent quality on all counts is what makes Henry a worthy return.
A meal for two including beverage and service amounts to HK$2,200.
How we rate
Each of our reviewers score restaurants based on four main criteria: setting, food, service, and drinks, taking into account more than 35 different points of reference including manners of staff, usefulness of the wine list, and whether or not the restaurant makes an effort to be environmentally aware. 5/5 indicates an exceptional experience; 4-4.5/5 is excellent; 3-3.5/5 is good to very good; and 2.5/5 or lower is average to below average. Before visiting a restaurant, the reviewers will book using a pseudonym and do not make themselves known to restaurant staff, in order to experience the venue as a regular guest—if this is not possible, or if we are recognised, we will indicate this in the review.