Pirata Group’s labyrinthine restaurant in the western reaches of Hong Kong island is a gourmet escapist’s fantasy
Arriving early to the restaurant, I texted my companions to let them know that I was already downstairs, at our table. When they turned up, they were suitably puzzled—Honjo is actually on the first floor of a building on Queen’s Road West in Sheung Wan, not the basement. I was disoriented by the journey from street to restaurant, via a small welcome area and sleek private elevator, as it ejected me into a world entirely removed from the rest of Hong Kong—the spot-lit interiors, drawn curtains and low wood panel ceilings mimicking a glamorous underground member’s club rather than a first floor restaurant.
Meandering through the generous space, you’ll get the impression that a lot of effort has been placed in the design and layout of the room—or rooms, as there are distinctly different sections that are characterised by paraphernalia ranging from kendo armour to vintage paintings. It’s not outwardly “Japanese” in the way that feels derivative, no lapsing into tired tropes and iconography; the space has the old-time glamour of the Orient Express, combined with the tasteful conservatism of the 1950s. The "club lite" music, however, pitched on the louder side, brings you right back to the present.
The premise of Honjo is modernised Japanese food combining traditional techniques with unexpected ingredients and flavours. Like other Pirata Group restaurants, the team have curated two ‘greatest hits’ omakase offerings, The Dreamer at HK$680 per person and The Traveller at HK$980 per person; both have optional wine and sake pairings. The rest of the menu is divided into small, raw and hot plates, tempura, sushi and sashimi, sides and desserts. Sharing is encouraged.
We started with the (deboned) chicken wings that our friendly waitress strongly encouraged we order, and we were glad she did so. The generously proportioned wings were are battered, fried and glazed with Okinawa black sugar and garlic for a sweet-and-salty crunch, with sesame seeds and freshly sliced chilli (not outrageously hot) sprinkled on top. Juicy, hot and tender, these wings would go perfectly with either a pint of ice-cold beer or a flask of Honjo’s own-label junmai daiginjo sake, brewed in Nagano. Cocktails are recommended as well (and a bar located near the front of the restaurant is a comfortable waiting room if you arrive before your companions), with expected concoctions with names like Geisha Manhattan (Suntory the Chita whisky, Geisha vermouth, yuzu bitters) and Sakura Blossom (Honjo sake, Charles Heidiesk Brut champagne, green chartreuse, peach, tonka syrup and lemon juice).
