Despite its name, 10 Shanghai more accurately is a restaurant serving Huaiyang cuisine, which also encompasses the culinary traditions of Suzhou and Shanghai, which place emphasis on rich flavours and artistic plating, the latter often relying on excellent knife skills by experienced chefs. We began our meal with aged Shaoxing huadiao brined chicken, served in a chilled glass bowl. The aged huadiao wine thoroughly permeated the lean bird, which remained tender with a bite. Jiangsu-style smoked fish kept its crunchy texture from the deep-fried fish slices, although the dressing could benefit from a lighter touch with the sugar to allow the savoury flavours to shine more.

Sliced crunchy cucumber served with sesame sauce was the piece de resistance, showcasing the chefs’ knife carving skills at their best—half-batons of cucumbers were carved into paper-thin slices and snuggly arranged on the plate. The cucumber kept its texture with a refreshing touch of sesame oil. Traditional braised pork meatballs in brown sauce were served warmed at the table. The unctuous ground pork was loosely packed into meatballs, braised in a sweet and rich glaze, served with fresh wedges of bok choy.

The deep-fried sweet and sour mandarin fish with pine nuts was a showstopper. A whole mandarin fish was deboned and butterflied, the fillet carved in an intricate criss-cross pattern before being deep-fried. Yielding to the hot oil, the the fillet curled into a shape resembling a pine cone. The knife carving skills were exemplary, and the dish boasted a fine balance of sweetness and tartness from the glaze, which was enriched with buttery pine nuts scattered across the top.

Save some room for carbs, as 10 Shanghai’s revamped classics such as mini scallion and Jinhua ham pastry were made to order–golden discs of well-laminated pastry were laced with a fine julienne of ham and a generous helping of chopped scallions weaved through every bite. Meanwhile, pan-fried xiao long baos were surprising with their crispy bases, steaming hot broth and tender pork filling. We enjoyed the restaurant’s Grand Marnier soufflé with osmanthus, by far the only innovative fusion of old and new out of the menu of sweet offerings. The fluffy soufflé was mildly sweet with just the right hint of floral notes from the honeyed osmanthus, while the orange liqueur gave the dessert a zesty aftertaste.

Guests can enjoy hot tea throughout the meal, as Longjing (Dragon Well) is a light and classic choice to rinse the palate between bites of the rich dishes. The wine list offers a humble selection of reds and whites from France, and surprisingly two labels of each from China. We were slightly disappointed with the lack of labels available by the glass though. Among the selections of Chinese liquors and fine spirits, Chinese inspired cocktails, named after the four beauties of ancient China, were on the fruity side.

Service was warm and friendly throughout our visits, and smiles were in abundance during our visits. The service team was helpful in offering dish recommendations and description of menu items at the time of ordering, although guests can expect an extended amount of waiting for dishes to be delivered at peak dining intervals.

10 Shanghai, Shop 101, 1/F Lee Gardens Two, 28 Yun Ping Road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong; +852 2338 5500

A meal for two including service amounts to HK$1,000.

Ratings: 4/5 

How we rate
Each of our reviewers scores restaurants based on four main criteria: setting, food, service, and drinks, taking into account more than 35 different points of reference including manners of staff, usefulness of the wine list, and whether or not the restaurant makes an effort to be environmentally aware. 5/5 indicates an exceptional experience; 4-4.5/5 is excellent; 3-3.5/5 is good to very good, and 2.5/5 or lower is average to below average. Before visiting a restaurant, the reviewers will book using a pseudonym and do not make themselves known to restaurant staff, in order to experience the venue as a regular guest—if this is not possible, or if we are recognised, we will indicate this in the review.