Robuchon alumnus Barry Quek is churning out some exceptional food in a quiet Central cul-de-sac
A beet is a divisive thing, drawing a line between those who appreciate its sweet earthiness and the naysayers who prefer to use the word ‘muddy’ (to put it kindly) to describe its flavour—all a matter of preference. When it comes to this cosy restaurant, however, the overwhelming opinion seems to be that chef Barry Quek’s cooking is very palatable indeed.
It’s a relief, considering my knee-jerk reaction to the images that poured out from early tastings—light and airy, VSCO-ed shots of beautifully plated food—was a little ¯\_(ツ)_/¯. Another restaurant with highly Instagrammable food, I thought to myself (perhaps a little unfairly). Prying a bit more, I found that Quek has built a considerable CV over the years, working in the kitchens of Joël Robuchon and Les Amis in Singapore; De Wulf in Belgium and Attica in Melbourne. The ‘less is more’ approach to the food at Beet is also mirrored in the dishes at Portland and Clipstone in London, where Quek worked prior to moving to Hong Kong. Time-tested methods and coaxing flavours out of local and seasonal ingredients seems to be the mantra here; behind the bar and in front of the kitchen window are large jars of housemade preserves and pickles, from fermented carrots to pickled dill and blackberries, bringing to mind the traditions of the Nordic kitchen.
In the same fashion, the menu here is restrained and tightly crafted, with just four starters and four mains, plus a smattering of snacks and two desserts; a five-course tasting menu is available for HK$690, which is how we decide to see what Quek’s cooking is all about.
The dish descriptions are reassuring in their brevity, with an average of three ingredients to sum up each creation: wild mushrooms, walnut emulsion, chestnuts; brussels sprouts, black garlic puree, flaked almonds; and so on. A deeply umami ceviche of snapper kickstarts the meal, followed by a small dome of ethereally light chicken liver parfait atop a surprisingly short biscuit base.