Middle Eastern cuisine is all the rage. Yet new Wan Chai hotspot Francis is not simply jumping on the bandwagon. The principles of the cuisine—not to mention the essential ingredients—are put to commendable use at this new Star Street restaurant
Middle Eastern cuisine is known for its use of spice and herbs, from wild oregano and sumac to distinctive spice blends such as ras-el-hanout and za’atar. Right from the beginning, the expert use of these flavours is something at which Francis excels.
From the za’atar-laced chicken schnitzel, to the generous dousing of halloumi with wild oregano, to cauliflower that’s elevated by the mark its tarragon sauce makes, herbs and spices at Francis are more than just a nice addition—they work for their place on a plate.
The crisp breaded chicken’s tangy za’atar accentuates the squeeze of lemon, lending a sharpness that enhances the juicy white meat. The earthy freshness of the wild oregano atop the browned, almost melting halloumi brings out the flavour of a squeaky cheese that can sometimes come across slightly bland. It brings balance here, too, to the sweetness of the pomegranate molasses and the tang of the fresh pomegranate seeds. In the cauliflower dish, the generous use of tarragon in the yoghurt sauce does not scream “look at me”, but instead, “look at what I can do.” Florets of cauliflower are cooked two ways—some crunchy and sliced, others grilled and spiced, before the tarragon lends distinction.
For all that expert use of herb and spice, sadly for me, it is lacking in the one dish that the restaurant itself lauds. The hummus is raved about from door to kitchen hatch as something of a signature. It’s apparently a bestseller, too, so it must have found some fans. But for me, I like my hummus with a bit of oomph. Controversial as it may be, I love the nip of cumin, even an edge of cayenne, or at least the bite of paprika. I like to taste lemon juice and that hint at garlic. But here, while the hummus is amazingly light and fluffy—characteristics that no doubt appeal to a certain stratum of hummus lover—it lacks weight and body, even if the balance of tahini to chickpea is good. The lamb ragu on top is a pleasant addition—savoury and textured—but it would be ever more so atop a more flavour-layered chickpea dip.
As well as herbs and spices, classic Middle Eastern ingredients all make their mark. There’s rose water (it gives iced tea here a twist); orange blossom (in the perfectly executed knafeh dessert, where it adds citrus vibrancy to the flavours); and harissa, (which is made in-house and accompanies the grilled octopus and burgul potato cake: the mollusc is tender but there’s enough texture there, too). Like the spices, each are used for what they bring to a dish, whether it’s for adding fragrance, bringing texture or, in the case of the harrisa, drawing out the flavours before allowing a pleasant spiciness to linger on the back of the tongue.
