Tempura is well executed at Fumi, and most items are available to order by the piece. The assorted tempura platter showcased both seafood and vegetables, as kuruma prawns and whiting were thinly battered and deep-fried until pale golden. The maitake mushrooms are the highlight of the assortment, juicy within with just the lightest of batter crust on the exterior. The Japanese style omelette roll is technically challenging to make, and Fumi’s chefs are masters at it. Skillfully folded and rolled tightly with a uniform texture throughout, the omelette is mildly sweet with rich umami from the dashi added into the egg before frying.

We enjoyed the Japanese minced chicken bar with egg yolk. The chicken patty was tender and juicy, as the egg acts as a rich dressing to the meat. The grilled Miyazaki beef sirloin, where two square cubes are skewered and grilled, was crusty on all sides. Carb offerings such as steamed rice required at least 45 minutes of preparation; a quicker option would be udon and buckwheat soba, served hot with thinly shaved Miyazaki beef. It’s best to enjoy the beef while it is still pink, while the soba has a prominent bite in its texture, and with the light broth, it is thoroughly enjoyable. Dessert options are on the traditional side. The green tea crème brulee is a petite but great treat to end the meal. A smooth pudding on its own, the matcha-infused custard underneath the thin caramel crust is sweet and silky.

Sake lovers will enjoy the abundant varieties of sakes on offer at Fumi, including a handful of sparkling sakes and by the glass options. Despite its varieties, the staff is in general quite weak on sake knowledge and offering sake pairing to food orders. The wine selection is humble and only by the bottle. Guests who fancy cocktails can sample some of Fumi’s fruity concoctions, as well as limited varieties of beers and spirits.

Service can be hit-or-miss at Fumi, as service seems slow even when the establishment is not at full capacity. The team has yet to familiarise with menu offerings, and orders were lost and wrongly delivered during our visit, but the staff was quick to amend the mistake. The team, however, is keen and helpful in introducing the restaurant’s concept and offering suggestions at time of order.

Fumi, 6/F, California Tower, Lan Kwai Fong, 30-36 D’Aguilar Street, Central, Hong Kong; +852 2328 3302

A meal for two with wine and service: around HK$1,100

Rating: 3.5/5

How we rate
Each of our reviewers score restaurants based on four main criteria: setting, food, service, and drinks, taking into account more than 35 different points of reference including manners of staff, usefulness of the wine list, and whether or not the restaurant makes an effort to be environmentally aware. 5/5 indicates an exceptional experience; 4-4.5/5 is excellent; 3-3.5/5 is good to very good; and 2.5/5 or lower is average to below average. Before visiting a restaurant, the reviewers will book using a pseudonym and do not make themselves known to restaurant staff, in order to experience the venue as a regular guest—if this is not possible, or if we are recognised, we will indicate this in the review.