The new Maximal Concepts restaurant goes big on the narrative, but focus on the cooking and you’ll find a place worth returning to
What’s in a name? It seems that the quickest formula for piquing diners’ curiosity is to christen your establishment after a mysterious character or two. A quick rundown: in the last few years, we’ve been introduced to Mr & Mrs Fox, the fictional couple representing the different character of each floor of the restaurant; there’s Mrs Pound, Dr Fern, and Frank Minza, the quirky non-existent figures lending their eccentric personalities to their respective venues; meanwhile, the titles of Madame Ching, Madame Fu and now Madam Saigon all serve to add an immediate air of sultry elegance to the Asian restaurants that bear their names.
John Anthony is not a fable, but is still as esoteric as they come, seemingly having no connection to the restaurant itself—an underground venue, much like its sister Mott 32, serving an ultra “now” take on classic Cantonese cuisine. The gentleman in question, as it turns out, is purported to be the first Chinese person to be nationalised by the British in the 19th century; as the story goes, he was a translator who spent his career aiding the Chinese and South East Asian sailors who flowed to the docks of London’s Limehouse (the original Chinatown in the British capital), a charismatic worker who played a part in facilitating trade along the spice route. And so we are, in 2018, in a room that could be anywhere—Miami, London, Johannesburg—perusing a menu of playful dishes that make liberal use of ingredients such as Sichuan peppercorns, cumin, tangerine peel and so on.
The interiors are beautiful to look at—the palette of contrasting tones (from faded pinks and indigo to vibrant emerald and magenta) adding depth to a room that adds visual interest by way of dramatic arches, impactful floral prints and (upcycled) terracotta tile flooring. Seating is split into different rooms, some shielded away from view by drawing curtains across the space. The round tables are on the smaller side, so request the banquettes if you’re not planning to dine tête-a-tête.