Edgar Sanuy’s new Spanish restaurant serves little bites in an expansive Sheung Wan space
With Lunar New Year in full swing, the idea of fresh beginnings has had its second wind—and so has Japanese tidying expert, Marie Kondo, whose cleaning mantras have been guiding countless individuals faced with examining the metaphorical and literal mess in their lives. The diminutive doyenne of decluttering has successfully tapped into the part of the human psyche that craves meaning and direction in all of our endeavours. In the Kondo universe, tidying isn't just a dull task; it's a process that holds up a mirror to our inner selves, forcing us to ask the question of what really matters to us all.
As typical of any worldwide sensation, the movement has sparked a great many memes. My personal favourite so far has been the widely circulated dystopian scenario where Kondo takes on a warrior-esque form as she calls out to a braying crowd: “Does this man spark joy?” and, when the audience responds with a resounding “no!”, tosses him nonchalantly into the void. Dark humour aside, the extension of Kondo's concept—of whether or not something (or someone) resonates strongly with you—into other facets of life is an idea that is powerful in its simplicity.
What does this all have to do with this week's new restaurant appraisal? It reinforced for me the idea that reviewing a restaurant goes beyond whether or not something has been done technically right—at T.Dining, it’s a discussion point that we return to time and time again, particularly during the time of the year where we vote on our Top 20 Best Restaurants. What we’re looking for is the little something extra, that je ne sais quoi, that—yes, here it comes—the spark of joy. The moment where you taste something and it triggers the part of your brain that lights up, releasing those endorphins. Or it’s when service is done so right that it fills you with a sense of warmth and happiness.
Pica Pica is a place that fits into that category of a place that mostly brings joy. The space is generous, with high ceilings that give the room an airiness that is welcome at full capacity. Occasionally, a tram trundles by as it makes its turn from Des Voeux Road past the historic Western Market. In fair weather, the windows open out onto the street. Low bar seating around the open kitchen gives diners a direct line of view of their food being prepared, while a casual bar area just inside the entrance is a welcoming spot for a pre- or post-dinner cocktail (try the G&T, served with Spanish olives); reservations are not taken for these sections of the restaurant. The menu is well judged, with not an overwhelming selection of dishes under each heading—there are your classic ham and cold cuts, then vegetable/meat/seafood tapas, and then more filling carb dishes such as paella and fideua.