Chef Kenny Chan returns to the local dining scene with his innovative take on the beloved regional cuisine
When classic Sichuan restaurant Yun Yan closed its doors a few years ago, the city mourned its demise and chef Kenny Chan retired from the vibrant dining scene. Yet the closing of his signature restaurant did not deter Chan’s passion in the fiery cuisine, as the experienced chef returned with Sichuan Lab last month.
Located in Wan Chai adjacent to the wet market, Sichuan Lab is a mysterious establishment with an unmarked door, in a similar fashion as a speakeasy. Entering the restaurant revealed a contemporary design, where glass jars of different Sichuan spices are neatly arranged along the side of one wall, while a well-stocked bar centred the main dining space, with evenly-spaced tables surrounding it. The space is painted a dim graphite colour, a contemporary touch that clashes with bright orange furnishing throughout the room. A secret corridor on the side of the restaurant leads guests past the kitchen and arriving into the spacious private rooms at the back of the house.
The menu consists of a list of classic Sichuan dishes such as mapo tofu and poached mandarin fish slices in chilli broth, but Sichuan Lab is all about the new dishes created on the basis of the classics, where Chan demonstrates his deep knowledge and understanding in Sichuan flavour profiles and prepares dishes that are beaming with energy through new presentation and premium ingredients such as wagyu beef and the rare peanut sprouts.
We began our meal with classic crispy paper-thin beef slices. They had a crisp texture with a sweet-and-hot flavour contrast to it. A light numbing sensation followed, thanks to a sprinkle of ground Sichuan peppercorns. Steamed chicken with century egg and spicy sauce is perfectly executed. The chicken was tender with a crisp skin, while the sauce, fiery as it may, was dotted with chopped golden century egg with a garlic-rich hot dressing with depth of dried chilli oil and Sichuan peppercorns. Sauteed peanut sprouts are unique to Sichuan Lab’s menu. Instead of conventional mung bean sprouts, fresh peanut sprouts are thicker and juicier with a crunchy texture that works well with a mild level of heat.