The menu is simple, and the selection of items offered seemed generic at best–there are a number of appetisers, hot and cold small plates to share, carbs and desserts. While on the predictable side, Tenkei offers a wide range of dishes across the spectrum of Japanese cuisine. We began with a chef-recommended aburi hamachi, where thickly sliced Japanese amberjack fish were lightly seared on the outside while the inside remains rare. The fish is neatly arranged atop marinated onions and shallots with garlic chip and soy sauce. We were caught off guard by how heavily seasoned the starter was, as the soy sauce overpowered the fish and numbed the sharpness of the onions. The scallop crudo, however, was refreshing and light with morsels of raw scallops on top of hearty avocado puree, paired with togarashi lime mayonnaise and yuzu apple sauce. The tartness of apple and yuzu worked wonders on the richness of scallops and the rough guacamole.

Chicken karaage, or deep-fried chicken served with nori mayonnaise, was a triumph. Chicken thigh pieces were lightly floured and deep-fried until light golden, preserving the juice within. The 62 degree sous-vide cod fish fillet in miso was a popular dish, the fish was tender but it could use a little more miso in the marinade as the fish was on the sweet side. The fish could also use a little more grilling in the end to build a firmer crust that contrasts with the tender flaky texture.

The matcha soba was a popular choice, but we opted for the yaki udon instead, where the thick noodles were tossed in a sweet and savoury soy sauce with chunks of chicken and green onions. Simple as it may be, the udon was evenly coated with the sauce and the seasoning was just right while chicken remained tender with a rich handful of green onions weaved through the dish. The dessert selection at Tenkei was modest; the deep-fried mochi was simple, served alongside vanilla ice cream and brown sugar syrup. It was good, but we felt it lacked the finesse or technique to make it worth ordering as a standalone dessert.

Presented on a glowing tablet, the drinks menu allows guests to order under the dim lights, and includes everything from shooters to high balls and sake-tonics. Wine by the glass options are limited strictly to sparkling varieties but guests who fancy an evening of tipples will find comfort in a great selection of Japanese malts, grain and botanical spirits as well as the cocktails made with them. The Kiku No Hana, a signature cocktail where sake replaces gin in a proper G&T. The transparent drink blends house sake with a touch of lemon juice, elderflower syrup, Tequila ocho blanco and tonic water. Although on the sweet side, the beverage is served very cold and can be a palate cleanser throughout the meal. The cocktail named 47 Ronin, however, lacked complexity, as the drink was not served cool enough, enhancing the sweetness built up from green grapes, pineapple juice, and sparkling plum wine, all made the drink even more viscous and syrup-like.

Service at Tenkei was casual, though more pub-like than personal. Some of the members of the service team lacked knowledge on its food offerings, although they were keen on pitching a hard sell on ordering more cocktails or some of the pricier dishes. The delivery of dishes were quick, a little too quick to be exact, as all of our dishes were laid out in front of us all at once, five minutes upon taking our orders, but drinks took more than 20 minutes to arrive.

We could tell Tenkei’s guests were here more for the hip ambience and its all-in-one purpose, where light bites, cocktails and shisha were all available under one roof. We felt that the restaurant needs to up their game on food offerings, especially the consistency of it, to keep the food-loving crowd to return for more.

A dinner for two including beverage and service amounts to HK$1,200.

Tenkei, 3/F 1 On Hing Terrace, Central, Hong Kong; +852 2789 3812

Rating: 3/5 

How we rate
Each of our reviewers score restaurants based on four main criteria: setting, food, service, and drinks, taking into account more than 35 different points of reference including manners of staff, usefulness of the wine list, and whether or not the restaurant makes an effort to be environmentally aware. 5/5 indicates an exceptional experience; 4-4.5/5 is excellent; 3-3.5/5 is good to very good; and 2.5/5 or lower is average to below average. Before visiting a restaurant, the reviewers will book using a pseudonym and do not make themselves known to restaurant staff, in order to experience the venue as a regular guest—if this is not possible, or if we are recognised, we will indicate this in the review.