Well-executed sharing plates and great beverage list are not the only impressive elements at Bjorn Frantzen’s second Hong Kong restaurant

After successfully launching Sheung Wan’s Frantzen’s Kitchen in 2016, Björn Frantzén has partnered with Maximal Concepts to open his sophomore restaurant: the Hong Kong outpost of The Flying Elk. While the establishment still offers a taste of Nordic cuisine, the Swedish chef has crafted a new direction—one that differs from the high-concept cuisine presented at both Frantzen in Stockholm and Frantzen's Kitchen. At his new restaurant, success lies within the similar small-bites and sharing plates format, which has been designed to be more accessible and approachable than those of its sister restaurants. 

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Above The Flying Elk's interiors mimic the gathering places of forest hunters. (Photo: The Flying Elk)

The restaurant’s name and concept are derived from an old Swedish folklore about a famously elusive flying elk with an ornate crown, and the taverns in which hunters traded stories of their encounters with the fantastic beast. Such gathering places became the basis for the interior design concept of The Flying Elk. In true forest cabin style, the establishment’s interiors are timber-lined, while dimmed lighting brings warmth to the space with an elongated open kitchen set opposite a line of forest-green bar stools, while larger parties can settle at the evenly spaced tables scattered across the dining space.

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Above Timber-lined interior and warm lighting help create the log cabie designs at the Nordic restaurant. (Photo: The Flying Elk)

It is worth noting that similar to Frantzen’s Kitchen, The Flying Elk takes pride in its small menu, where a modest selection of small plates are meant for sharing. Expect a wide selection of meat dishes and bold flavours, although the restaurant is curiously lacking a healthy range of vegetarian dishes. We began our meal with gougeres, tiny choux puffs filled with fennel seeds and Allerum cheddar filling and topped with chestnut honey. The tiny puffs were a blend of sweet and savoury, the creamy filling accented with a touch of sweet honey. Pig’s ears were fashioned into slender goujons and deep-fried until golden-brown on the outside and gelatinous within. The sauce gribiche, a mayonnaise-based herb sauce, makes an impressive accompaniment to the crunchy starter.

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Above Gougeres at The Flying Elk are filled with fennel seeds and Allerum cheddar cream and topped with chestnut honey. (Photo: The Flying Elk)

The Flying Elk’s open sandwich is similar to a tartine, where crisp sourdough bread is topped with a generous helping of pork cheek that’s been slow-cooked for 24 hours, where pickled cabbage, wild mushrooms and a shaving of black truffles join the stack of fillings. The pork cheek is fork-tender and best with the tangy pickled red cabbage. We love the addition of truffle shavings but in this case we felt the sandwich would still be good without it.

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Above The restaurant's signature roasted scallops. (Photo: The Flying Elk)

Baby chicken and lobster pot au feu arrived in two parts – first in a roasting tin where the baby chicken was roasted with root vegetables and shelled lobster, and secondly as a separate serving of lobster bisque. The whole chicken was perfectly roasted: golden on the outside and juicy throughout. The lobster was cooked just right and the turnips were sweet, although the carrots could use a little more roasting. The lobster bisque served on the side was rich but a tad over-seasoned. We would prefer it to be a rich sauce served as part of the larger course, than separately.

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Above A well-executed Open Sandwich is topped with slow-cooked pork cheeks, pickled cabbage and truffle shavings. (Photo: The Flying Elk)

The dessert selection offers more Nordic combinations, and some of the items may need a considerable amount of explanation. The sea buckthorn and carrot sorbet was adequately tart, and a perfect palate cleanser before enjoying other desserts. The grilled pineapple was served with an Aquavit-laced caramel sauce and served with star anise ice cream. While the fruit was tender and sweet, the presentation felt a bit simple and the ice cream was too soft. We did, however, enjoy the fruity Marangsviss, where blueberry compote and lemon thyme mousse filled a baked meringue, which was then topped with blueberry sorbet and thyme powder. An acquired taste it might be, the berry and herb combination was on point and was just sweet enough to be a great way to finish off our meal.

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Above Tartar 'Lamb in Dill', another bestselling dish at The Flying Elk. (Photo: The Flying Elk)

Drinks are impressive in terms of variety, as there is an abundance of wines by the glass, and cocktails are well-prepared with the addition of Nordic elements, from Swedish spirits like Akvaviq to artisanal gins and unique ingredients such as birch sap soda, rhubarb, lingonberry and cucumber shrub. We were particularly impressed with the Spruced Up!, where the sharp flavour of spruce shoots were added in the form of cordial with lime and oil to finish a cocktail made with Herno Swedish Excellence gin.

We found the service warm and welcoming—as we had booked a late seating, a member of staff calling to confirm our reservation kindly suggested we pre-order a few dishes ahead of time in case they ran out. The staff are knowledgeable in wine and the restaurants’ food offerings, and are keen to offer pairing suggestions as well. The waiting time for mains may be long during peak hours or when the restaurant was full, but the staff were attentive and helpful throughout our experience.

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Above Baby Chicken & Lobster 'Pot-Au-Feu' is served with a tarragon-infused lobster soup. (Photo: The Flying Elk)

While The Flying Elk offers an informal experience, where food and stories can be shared throughout the night, it is more than just a beer tavern. The establishment offers, in equal parts, a passionate showcase of Nordic cuisine and the charm of great hospitality.

The Flying Elk, 32 Wyndham Street, Central, Hong Kong; +852 2565 6788

A meal for two with one beverage and service: around HK$1,800

Rating: 4/5 

How we rate
Each of our reviewers score restaurants based on four main criteria: setting, food, service, and drinks, taking into account more than 35 different points of reference including manners of staff, usefulness of the wine list, and whether or not the restaurant makes an effort to be environmentally aware. 5/5 indicates an exceptional experience; 4-4.5/5 is excellent; 3-3.5/5 is good to very good; and 2.5/5 or lower is average to below average. Before visiting a restaurant, the reviewers will book using a pseudonym and do not make themselves known to restaurant staff, in order to experience the venue as a regular guest—if this is not possible, or if we are recognised, we will indicate this in the review.

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