The yakitori specialist’s upgrade from Bridges Street to Wing Lok Street means plenty of extra space—but don’t expect a shorter wait
If the philosopher Heraclitus were alive today, he may remark that, in addition to change, the only constant in life is the queue at Yardbird. On a weekday sandwiched by the Christmas and New Year holidays, the thronging crowds still crowded the nest—I’d hazard that at least half were also motivated by the same misguided theory that the end-of-December great expat migration would cut the lines considerably. The fact that the restaurant has already upgraded to an expansive new site that appears at least three times bigger than its original perch has had a middling effect on the wait time. Yes, I realise that highlighting the wait for a table at Yardbird is akin to complaining about the weather in London, or commenting on the latest Trump gaff—but think of it as a friendly reminder.
No matter, as you’re likely to work your way through the drinks list as you wait—the menu is twice as long as that for the food—with extremely quaffable, mostly refreshing libations infused with ingredients ranging from yuzu to shiso, emboldened by premium whiskies, gins and other spirits. The roster of sake, beers, house-made umeshu, shochu, and 20-plus bottles of wine both expansive and tightly curated; a few bottles (along with other Yardbird paraphernalia) are available to bring home via the Sunday’s Grocery provisions corner, housed between dining rooms.