Cover Freshly ground black pepper has become de rigeur in kitchens and dining rooms—but is it now passé? (Photo: Allagash Brewing)
Our editors round up the best of the best in food media this month—check back weekly for new additions to savour

March 7-13, 2020

Demystifying The Breads Of Armenia

We’ve seen lavash in our kebabs, but did you know that back in Armenia the bread is draped on the shoulders of brides to bring fertility and prosperity?
Benjamin Kemper of Saveur Magazine shares the customs and superstitions that surround the Armenian bread and introduces us to other lesser-known ones.

We're All Irrational Panic Shoppers

In times of coronavirus in the US, Helen Rosner of the New Yorker looks into our tendency to hoard and over-splurge, bringing recent sightings of emptying supermarket shelves and dismay even in the realm of online grocery shopping. Resulting from the ever-worsening updates on confirmed cases of coronavirus across the country, the author rationalises our need to feel the comfort that comes from being prepared in times of a potential doomsday.

Freshly Cracked Pepper?

If you've never stopped to think about how a launching a flurry of freshly ground black pepper has become almost instinctual in cooking and tableside service, then Jamie Feldmar's examination of the practice is a delightfully salty read on how the spice has become passé. Are you pro or anti pepper shaker?

How To Eat Well While You Travel Solo

Travelling may not be at the forefront of our minds right now, but why not consider—in the not too distant future, since we'll be so used to social distancing by then anyway—a solo jaunt where you can eat to your own heart's content? Mr Porter's Suze Olbrich extolls the virtues of going it alone.

 

Elsewhere On Tatler Dining

March 1-6, 2020

Nothing Compares To Yuzu 

Helen Rosner of The New Yorker waxes lyrical about the now ubiquitous Japanese citrus, whose beguiling scent is exquisitely described as thus: “more floral than an orange and nearly as tart as a lime, with a scent that is dense and disarming, the Froot-Loops-y honey of a lemon blossom wrapped around an astringent armature of industrial floor cleaner (which is somehow exquisite), then magnified tenfold, then mailed to the moon.” Perfection.

What US Food Critics Could Learn From The UK (And Vice Versa, I Guess …)

British restaurant critic Jay Rayner compared the presentation style and approach of restaurant reviews penned by American critics compared to his compatriots. Detailing critique based on cultural backgrounds and seeing food in different context, Rayner is offering some pointers not only for American critics, but also for those of us who read reviews religiously.

Michelin Is Washing “The Little Red” Green

Chef Christian Puglisi of Copenhagen’s Relae restaurant goes investigative journalist on the Michelin guide’s new sustainability award, the Green Clover, discovering that the accolade is bestowed without any real probing into restaurants’ eco credentials. Puglisi points out that Relae received a Green Clover after a simple phone conversation, rather than any kind of audit. In his Instagram post below, the chef lays out his argument.

How To Reduce Your Food’s Carbon Footprint, In 2 Charts

We’ve always been told to eat local in order to reduce our carbon footprint, but what if it wasn’t the most effective way? In his article, Sigal Samuel from Vox shows us that what we eat is far more important than where our food is coming from with the help of graphs that examine different types of food and how much greenhouse gas emission each stage in the supply chain produces.

Don’t Be Shy About Asking For A Doggy Bag: You Deserve A Round Of Applause

From the archives: reducing food waste in a restaurant setting is largely reliant on guests’ sensible ordering. While doggy bags (aka takeaway bags) have become more prominent than a fad, Felicity Cloake of The Guardian reassures us that by doing so we help reduce food waste. And leftovers can be good too!

C Is for Colonialism’s Effect on How & What We Eat

What is considered authentic cuisine? In her latest article, Food52’s Coral Lee discusses how colonialism has shaped food culture, the fine line between respect and culinary appropriation and how authenticity is in the eye of the beholder.

Great Hospitality Starts with Empathy

Does good service equate justifying everything the guests desire and pampering them? Not necessarily. Food & Wine Magazine’s Josh Miller details how the right service can skew the dining experience from good to better, and how the connection between service staff and the guests can be reinforced.

 

Elsewhere On Tatler Dining

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