March 7-13, 2020
Demystifying The Breads Of Armenia
We’ve seen lavash in our kebabs, but did you know that back in Armenia the bread is draped on the shoulders of brides to bring fertility and prosperity?
Benjamin Kemper of Saveur Magazine shares the customs and superstitions that surround the Armenian bread and introduces us to other lesser-known ones.
We're All Irrational Panic Shoppers
In times of coronavirus in the US, Helen Rosner of the New Yorker looks into our tendency to hoard and over-splurge, bringing recent sightings of emptying supermarket shelves and dismay even in the realm of online grocery shopping. Resulting from the ever-worsening updates on confirmed cases of coronavirus across the country, the author rationalises our need to feel the comfort that comes from being prepared in times of a potential doomsday.
If you've never stopped to think about how a launching a flurry of freshly ground black pepper has become almost instinctual in cooking and tableside service, then Jamie Feldmar's examination of the practice is a delightfully salty read on how the spice has become passé. Are you pro or anti pepper shaker?
How To Eat Well While You Travel Solo
Travelling may not be at the forefront of our minds right now, but why not consider—in the not too distant future, since we'll be so used to social distancing by then anyway—a solo jaunt where you can eat to your own heart's content? Mr Porter's Suze Olbrich extolls the virtues of going it alone.
Elsewhere On Tatler Dining
March 1-6, 2020
Helen Rosner of The New Yorker waxes lyrical about the now ubiquitous Japanese citrus, whose beguiling scent is exquisitely described as thus: “more floral than an orange and nearly as tart as a lime, with a scent that is dense and disarming, the Froot-Loops-y honey of a lemon blossom wrapped around an astringent armature of industrial floor cleaner (which is somehow exquisite), then magnified tenfold, then mailed to the moon.” Perfection.
What US Food Critics Could Learn From The UK (And Vice Versa, I Guess …)
British restaurant critic Jay Rayner compared the presentation style and approach of restaurant reviews penned by American critics compared to his compatriots. Detailing critique based on cultural backgrounds and seeing food in different context, Rayner is offering some pointers not only for American critics, but also for those of us who read reviews religiously.
Michelin Is Washing “The Little Red” Green
Chef Christian Puglisi of Copenhagen’s Relae restaurant goes investigative journalist on the Michelin guide’s new sustainability award, the Green Clover, discovering that the accolade is bestowed without any real probing into restaurants’ eco credentials. Puglisi points out that Relae received a Green Clover after a simple phone conversation, rather than any kind of audit. In his Instagram post below, the chef lays out his argument.