Whether you get there by hiking or kayaking, these are the restaurants worth the journey
Hong Kong boasts of an incredible variety of landscapes, and invariably, tucked in the fold of a valley or on the escarpment of a beach, one will find a bare-knuckle eatery that has, against all odds, managed to piece together a full menu—and excelled—despite the lack of creature comforts offered by their surroundings.
With these establishments, the difficulty in getting there—whether by hiking or on a rickety sampan ride—is all part of the fun; and with international travel still out of the equation, who doesn't love a day trip based on the premise of food? Here are five restaurants scattered around Hong Kong's fringes that are worth the journey.
Duen Kee Tea House, Tai Mo Shan
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Housed in an unassuming village house on the slopes of Hong Kong's tallest peak, Duen Kee serves authentic dim sum completely sans frills. Harking back to a different era, every aspect of Duen Kee is self-service: from procuring utensils and pouring tea, and snatching Duen Kee's signature steamed char siu rice rolls and wu gok (fried taro dumplings) from a gargantuan bamboo steamer, to scooping a dessert of tofu fa (tofu custard) from a large tub.
The restaurant opens from 6am to 2pm, though most customers arrive early to order the blanched watercress—grown in the surrounding fields—and a serving of siu mei (roast meats) while taking in the views and crisp mountain air. Thanks to its location, a meal at Duen Kee is often followed by a hike to Tai Mo Shan—though we recommend taking some time to digest before embarking on a post-prandial ramble.
The scenic route: From Tsuen Wan MTR Station, Chuen Lung Village is a winding 12-minute taxi ride away. Duen Kee is located just a short walk into the village proper. After your meal, continue uphill on Route Twisk and look for the Rotary Park Nature Trail, which will lead you to the beginning of Maclehose Trail Section 8.
Duen Kee Tea House, Chuen Lung Village, Tai Mo Shan, Tsuen Wan, +852 2490 5246
Ming Kee Seafood Restaurant, Po Toi
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Don't let Po Toi's nickname, "the South Pole of Hong Kong", put you off from making the hour-long kaito ride to this windswept gem and its abundance of hiking trails and quirkily named rock formations. The island has a long history of fishing, and the best place to sample the produce of the surrounding waters is Ming Kee, a 30-year-old seafood restaurant that anchors the only village on Po Toi.
See also: 10 Secret Islands To Visit In Hong Kong
Despite its remoteness, Ming Kee is often the first port of call for hungry partygoers arriving by junk boat to seek out the restaurant's freshly caught white boiled shrimp, the signature seaweed soup with egg and dried shrimp, and deep-fried salt-and-pepper calamari—just make sure to book ahead for large groups. The restaurant's location right on the beach is also a major draw, with the gentle waters of the cove making for a great afternoon dip.
The scenic route: A handful of ferries depart on Saturdays and Sundays from Aberdeen and Stanley. The ferry pier is the staging ground for two paved circular hiking paths that cover the island's attractions, including Tin Hau Temple, Kwoon Yat Pagoda, prehistoric rock carvings and a number of rock formations.
Ming Kee Seafood Restaurant, Po Toi, Hong Kong; +852 2849 7038