Dom Perignon’s new chef de cave reveals what fans have to look forward to under his influence
“I’m a man of dreams,” says Vincent Chaperon, the newly installed chef de cave at one of Champagne’s most prestigious houses. “I always wanted to work in wine, but I wanted to dedicate myself to a great wine, a wine that is not just a wine to drink, but which is about culture, history, sophistication, ambition, projection, imagination…”
Realising that dream began some years ago for Chaperon. He has been working at Dom Pérignon—a brand that more than fits his ambition—since 2005. And in January this year he took the reins from the house’s previous chef de cave, Richard Geoffroy, who had been at the helm since 1990.
Chaperon grew up around wine. His family hails from Pomerol in Bordeaux, an appellation where his grandmother once had an estate. With Bordeaux in his blood, it was a significant moment when he chose to head to Champagne. “I was really rooted to wine in Bordeaux,” he says – and he considered remaining there. But at the same time, he wanted to leave and explore. Finding himself in Champagne, he says it was a case of being in the right place at the right time, not only securing an opportunity to build his roots in a prestigious wine region and to establish his career with a great wine, but also to work with the right people. “At the core of everything is my relationship with Richard,” he says.
From 2005, Chaperon worked alongside Geoffroy on 13 harvests and declared four vintages with him, including the 2005, 2006, 2009 and, most recently, the 2008.
Yet it’s with some trepidation that Chaperon takes up his new role. “It’s not easy, because Richard had been working at Dom Pérignon for such a long time. He was really embodying the brand; he was the face of the brand. On the other hand, I think we have built a deep relationship between us in the last 14 years, exchanged things, learnt things together: harvest, winemaking, blending, the creative process. It was something we shared fully,” he says.
However, technique and winemaking are only part of the chef de cave’s job. Chaperon’s new role also involves being a guardian of Dom Pérignon.
“Dom Pérignon is bigger than you and has been around for a long time. It’s about respecting the patrimony and traditions; it’s about trying to add something, because the brand needs to be nourished, to be modern and to grow.”
So what will Chaperon bring to the brand? “I need time to build my own way,” he says. “But it will not be completely different from Richard and from Dominique [Foulon, Richard’s predecessor and Dom Pérignon’s chef de cave from 1975 to 1990] because there is a continuity. I must go on building the trajectory. But I come with my energy, my dream, my imagination. I want to push the boundaries, to make the wine grow, to make it more intense, deeper, longer, wider.” Dom Pérignon is Dom Pérignon, he says, but his aim is to enhance it, to make a more precise version of it, so more people can understand and embrace it.