Neighbourhood Guide: Where To Eat, Drink And Shop In Sheung Wan
For a neighbourhood that was once known for its coffin shops more than its coffee shops, Sheung Wan has quickly transformed into one of Hong Kong's hippest neighbourhoods and formed a melting pot of old and new, East and West.
Where to eat
Tucked away in one of the corners of Gough Street, Bedu delights with some of Hong Kong's best Middle Eastern fare. The restaurant wraps around an open kitchen and features a bar where smaller parties can admire the chefs at work while enjoying their meal. The restaurant is the perfect place to catch up with friends, not only because you can actually hear each other talk but because Bedu is known for its shareable small plates inspired by the nomadic wanderings of the Bedouin tribes.
Some of the signature dishes are the smoked hummus, the beetroot and mint labneh and the charred broccoli with crispy kale, chilli, and zhoug.
Bedu, 40 Gough Street, Sheung Wan, +852 2320 4450; bedurestaurant.com
Recently renovated Frantzén's Kitchen is located one one of the quietest corners of the upper Sheung Wan neighbourhood. The restaurant offers an interesting mix of Nordic fusion with Asian influences and award-winning Swedish chef Björn Frantzén's ever-changing menu promises a true gastronomic experience.
Some of the latest favourites include the French toast with summer truffle, balsamic vinegar, aged cheese and truffle tea.
Frantzén's Kitchen, 11 Upper Station St, Sheung Wan, +852 2559 8508; frantzenskitchen.com
Space may be scarce in Hong Kong, but with its expansive floor plan, brick walls and large windows, Pica Pica will transport you to another city. Inspired by the tastes of his grandmother's cooking, chef Edgar Sanuy brings his Barcelonian childhood memories to the table with a contemporary twist on Spanish tapas.
Don't miss out on the wagyu steak tartar on charred bone marrow, the vegetarian lazy omelette with Josper charred baby asparagus and of course, the delicious black paella rice.
Pica Pica, 317 - 321 Des Voeux Rd Central, Sheung Wan, +852 2811 9880; picapica.hk
See also: Review: Pica Pica’s Tiny Tapas Spark Joy
It’s always a party at Hong Kong’s hippest izakaya restaurant, Yardbird. From yakitori chicken bites to small plates and bigger sharing plates, this spot is always buzzing on the weekends.
More recently, they even introduced their brand new weekend brunch special: Chicken and waffle. Come early and come hungry if you don’t want to wait for a table––they don’t take reservations.
Yardbird, G/F, 154-158 Wing Lok Street, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong, +852 2547 9273; yardbirdrestaurant.com
See also: New Japanese Izakaya The Aubrey Will Open In Mandarin Oriental In 2021
Those with a sweet tooth must stop by chef Vicky Lau's Poem Patisserie, located directly below her flagship restaurant Tate Dining Room & Bar at street level.
The colourful and artfully decorated pastries stand out against the minimalist white interior. Both the cake decorations and flavours draw inspiration from Hong Kong's roots with a blend of nostalgia and tradition while still maintaining originality with its exquisite designs.
Poem Patisserie, 210 Hollywood Rd, Sheung Wan, +852 2555 2550; poempatisserie.com
See also: Tate’s Vicky Lau Has Launched Poem Patisserie
For the best chicken broth ramen in town, make your way to Zagin Soba on Gough Street. Known for their frothy cappuccino broth, their signature bowl is completed with two thin slices of Japanese ham and deep-fried burdock root.
Feeling hungry? Add a serving of their freshly fried karaage or a bowl of seasoned rice to finish.
Zagin Soba, 7 Gough St, Central, +852 2447 1398, instagram.com/zaginsoba
Where To Drink
Elephant Grounds Roastery
Elephant Grounds’ newest branch in Sheung Wan boasts an impressive in-house bakery, roastery and welcoming outdoor seating space.
Spanning over 7,000 square feet, this self-proclaimed “urban oasis” is the perfect mid-day spot to pick up a strong CBD coffee or a pastry or two.
Elephant Grounds Roastery, G/F, Hollywood Centre, 233 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan, +852 3580 0554; elephantgrounds.com
This charming coffee shop is tucked away in an alley filled with antique shops, which makes the cafe and its outdoor terrace all the more quaint.
Halfway Coffee, which has another location down the street, strives to capture the essence of the neighbourhood by bridging the gap between traditional and modern which is evident in its weekly rotation of traditional Chinese cups used to serve some of their finest coffee, including their signature Longan honey latte and flat white.
Another characteristic that adds to the cafe's charm is the old-school, quintessentially Hong Kong "cash register"—a bucket hanging from the ceiling by a rope.
Halfway Coffee, 26 Upper Lascar Row, Sheung Wan, +852 9511 7197; instagram.com/halfwaycoffee
See also: 5 Cafés For Serious Coffee Drinkers
Opened by Jay Khan in 2017, head over to COA for Mexican-flavoured tipples and cosy, intimate atmosphere.
Ranked number three on Asia’s 50 best bars list in 2020 and as one of the best bars on this year’s Tatler cocktail guide, COA also offers canned versions of their signature drinks so that you can have a stash ready when you feel like staying in at home.
COA, Shop A, LG/F Wah Shin House, 6-10 Shin Hing Street, Central, Hong Kong, +852 2813 5787; coa.com.hk
This Australian coffee shop doubles as a cafe and a coffee store. With its exposed concrete and Tolix chairs, the cafe gives off a cool industrial vibe. The local cafe attracts coffee connoisseurs who gather to enjoy specialty hand drip coffee from Ethiopia, Indonesia, Costa Rica and El Salvador.
Upstairs, you’ll find accessories such as coffee drippers, grinders, tampers and anything you need to make you look like a pro barista next time you have guests over.
Barista Jam, 97 Jervois St, Sheung Wan, +852 22854 2211; facebook.com/baristajamhk
If coffee is not what you need on a hot afternoon, stop by Blue Supreme for a cold one. The laid back craft beer bar serves an array of international live beers, with a good number of them imported directly from Belgium.
Beer aficionados will be happy to see a menu organised by flavour profile, and foodies won't be disappointed with the local joint's New American food offerings.
Blue Supreme, 21 Tung St, Sheung Wan, +852 5998 3088; bluesupreme.live
Where to shop
This Parisian gem is a rare find as it boasts an interesting lifestyle concept not found anywhere else in Hong Kong. Here, you can enjoy a glass of wine, share a plate of rillettes with your friends, all the while browsing an impressive collection of handcrafted leather goods, fine jewellery and ready-to-wear outfits inspired by art and travel.
The designer store targets the independent free-spirited woman with a love for adventure, characteristics that belonged to the two designer sisters' grandmother and mother, who donned an art deco bracelet containing a scarabée (beetle), the shop's mascot.
Château Zoobeetle, 38 Sai St, Sheung Wan, +852 2559 8555; zoobeetle.com
This boudoir-inspired parfumerie isn't your average perfume store. By only selling independent brands, Parfumerie Trésor strives to bring Hong Kong a niche market of creative and unique perfumes from the Middle East and Europe. The owners believe that every perfume tells a story and they work very closely with their clients to choose the perfect scent for the right occasion.
The parfumerie itself exudes elegance and is reminiscent of a lady's private salon, with its burgundy walls, velvet couches and European furniture.
The store also holds cultural workshops that highlight the art of fragrance.
Parfumerie Trésor, 18 Upper Station St, Sheung Wan, +852 2711 5922; parfumerietresor.com
The Wild Lot
Founded by Tatler friend, Kayla Wong’s fiancee, Elaine Chen Fernandez, The Wild Lot is an event space that regularly hosts exhibitions, photography shows and pop-up events.
Encouraging connection and collaboration between people, The Wild Lot is the ideal stop for when you’re exploring the creative side of Sheung Wan.
The Wild Lot, Shop B, G/F, 6-10 Shin Hing Street, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong; thewildlot.co
Sheung Wan’s new 4,000 square foot lifestyle store, #HAPi brings in products from around the world that sparks happiness.
From Japanese porcelain, dinner sets to quirky knick-knacks, and even organic seasonal produce from Japan, Australia and Taiwan, swing by this five-in-one supermarket, florist, boutique, restaurant and homeware shop if you’re passing by Tai Ping Shan Street.
#HAPi, Shop 2-4, G/F, No.11 Po Yan Street, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong, +852 2811 3623; hapi-fish.com
See also: The Tatler Guide To Art Galleries In Sheung Wan
This article was originally published on October 21, 2019 and was updated on October 21, 2020.