The Maldives is one of the most beautiful yet ecologically vulnerable regions in the world. But you have to see it to believe it and—hopefully—do more to preserve it

Once defined by kitschy thatched-roof villas, extravagant country club-style facilities and tiki drinks, resorts in the Maldives are now dialling it back to proudly show off—and ultimately protect—the archipelago’s spectacular but vulnerable wildlife.

Keeping things simple with chic villas, a handful of restaurants and an expert-led dive and watersports centre, hotels like Alila Kothaifaru aren’t trying too hard—such properties don’t have to. The resort sits on a private island surrounded by a vibrant house reef—just as many waterfront resorts around the world have private beaches, many dive resorts have unique access to certain reefs—in the Raa Atoll.

Designed by Singapore-based Studiogoto, the 80-villa resort’s minimalist aesthetic was intended to create the impression that each building disappears into the island’s natural landscape. The hope is, so will its guests; a visit to this island is less of an escape than an immersion.

Large windows in the beachfront villas frame a scene of tropical flora, placing guests in the heart of oversized palm leaves and brilliant hibiscus flowers where colourful birds and lizards come to feed. When designing the island, Studiogoto made a point of preserving 70 per cent of its existing vegetation.

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Photo 1 of 2 Beachfront villas at Alila Kothaifaru Maldives
Photo 2 of 2 70% of the island's existing vegetation was preserved in building the resort

Outside each of the stilted overwater villas, an overflowing infinity pool blends seamlessly into the panoramic stretch of turquoise ocean. In these waters, it’s not rare that you’ll spot pods of dolphins, spotted rays, sea turtles and friendly reef sharks.

Getting up close and personal with nature is certainly a draw for visiting the Maldives; but that easy proximity also happens to be one of the region’s biggest threats. Here, nature-based tourism creates something of a paradox. While its economy relies heavily on tourism, the industry is frequently blamed for exacerbating the environmental crisis—resorts create high energy and resource demands and turn out excess waste, while the runaway development of resort islands has had a devastating effect on coral reefs and marine life.

Of the 1,200 islands scattered across the Maldives’ sun-kissed atolls, 80 per cent sit at an elevation of less than one metre above sea level. As sea levels continue to rise, these picturesque islands are facing the very real threat of becoming uninhabitable by 2050, according to reports from Nasa.

While that’s not exactly good news, it has pushed the Maldives to become a global leader in change and innovation when it comes to fighting climate change and protecting the oceans.

“We are the perfect place [to do this] as our country is only made up of 1 per cent land. The other 99 per cent is covered by sea,” says Shaahina Ali, director of Parley Maldives, the regional leg of non-profit environmental organisation Parley for the Oceans. “Parley is working to address these problems by implementing the Parley AIR [Avoid, Intercept, Redesign] programme, collaborating with island communities. We support and set up a framework for these communities [to prevent] recyclable plastics from ending up in the ocean or landfill, instead transporting them to Parley’s facility in [the Maldivian capital] Malé.”

See also: These five-star hotels are making a positive impact on their local communities

Waste Makes Haste

To date, Parley Maldives has intercepted over two million kilograms of plastic waste, which the organisation has repurposed and upcycled to create Ocean Plastic, a range of premium, eco-innovative materials.

Some resorts have taken it upon themselves to minimise waste, and the need to transport it, with on-site facilities. Soneva Resorts, for instance, which operates Soneva Fushi and Soneva Jani in the Maldives, has on-site waste-processing facilities that recycle around 90 per cent of the resorts’ plastic, aluminium and glass waste.

Meanwhile, Fairmont Maldives has a sustainability lab where it transforms resort- and ocean-salvaged waste into souvenirs, furniture and essential products for local schools; and Alila Kothaifaru has its own glass crusher, compactor, incinerator and food composter, which produces fertiliser for the resort’s organic garden.

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Photo 1 of 2 The resort sits on a private island surrounded by a vibrant house reef in the Raa Atoll
Photo 2 of 2 The resort sits on a private island surrounded by a vibrant house reef in the Raa Atoll

For resorts such as these, choosing to go green isn’t just for good PR optics. The truth is, they don’t have much of a choice—operating as sustainably as possible is essential to their long-term survival. “Hotels and resorts are helping to protect the environment in many ways,” says Ali. “Every resort’s house reef is a no-take area, which by itself equates to thousands of kilometres of reef protection.”

On a Sunday afternoon, while enjoying a sundowner on the beach, we saw Alila Kothaifaru’s general manager Thomas Weber emerge from the water in his version of Sunday best—pastel-hued boardshorts, snorkelling fins and goggles, carrying a large bag filled with rubbish that had been washed into the reef.

An avid diver and a fierce protector of the resort’s surrounding reefs, if Weber is not out exploring the depths of faraway atolls on his days off, he can be found doing a spot of housekeeping in his own underwater back garden, leading these ocean clean-ups with several members of hotel staff; guests are welcome to join too, of course.

Water World

The Maldives is home to about 2,500 coral reefs, making them the dominant ecosystem in the archipelago. When healthy and thriving, healthy reefs resemble vibrant underwater cities teeming with sea turtles and colourful fish. But rising sea temperatures have resulted in long stretches of colourless coral—a process known as coral bleaching, when rising ocean temperatures cause symbiotic algae in the coral to turn white.

This has catastrophic consequences to the entire reef. “This [has been] devastating to witness,” says Chelsea Thomas, a resident dive instructor and marine biologist at Alila Kothaifaru. “And so, I began my venture into educating people and doing my best to make a difference for the reefs of our oceans. We have just started developing our coral frames and planting corals, and we do many clean-up dives around the island to try keep our atoll clean.”

Thomas was assigned to accompany Tatler on a day trip to snorkel with manta rays. Just a 20-minute speedboat ride from the resort, Thomas and a team of crew take small groups of guests to areas of open water, using a drone to track the gentle giants. “I can’t believe I get to do this every day,” Thomas says as she pulls on her wetsuit.

One of the crew had spotted three manta rays about 20 metres from the boat. It’s Thomas’s second time swimming with the rays today; during her morning visit, she says there was a school of around 15. “They’re solitary creatures by nature, but come together when it’s time to feed,” she explains. “We try to educate guests about the species and how to interact with them appropriately.”

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Above Swimming with manta rays is one of many ways to get up close and personal with the Maldives' unique marine ife

More resorts in the Maldives are offering safe and ethical interactions with the underwater world by limiting the number of guests they bring out to the atolls per day, and educating them on ocean “etiquette”—like not touching or standing on corals, and not crowding around shy sea turtles, as they’ll likely hide and forget to go back up for air.

About a minute after we jump into the water, Thomas points to the left and, slowly, a figure begins to emerge. A manta ray, about four metres wide, swims directly toward us. Another one follows, and before we know it, we’re surrounded by a small group of the massive creatures. They’re playful and curious, like puppies of the sea. The experience is nothing short of magical—and it’s these moments that Thomas hopes will encourage guests to protect the oceans.

“If people are under the water witnessing the beauty that our reefs hold, seeing the difference between a healthy reef and a bleached reef, and interacting with the species that rely on [them], they will understand why we need to protect them and make changes in our daily lives,” she says. “The ocean is not part of most people’s daily life, so it’s easy to ignore the effects we have on it.”

Ali, who is also a scuba diver and photographer, agrees. “The ocean is amazing—I want to get people to not only see marine life, I want them to be in the blue oceans and I want them to connect enough with it that it not only becomes an unforgettable memory, but a daily reminder that everything one person does right is what will help save this planet from losing all forms of life. Fighting climate change must come from each one of us.

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