It has become an annual pilgrimage for watch journalists everywhere to converge in Geneva for Watches and Wonders, drawn by the allure of uncovering the newest horological marvels. With the demise of Baselworld, the luxury watch trade show is now the biggest of its kind in the world, and it continues to grow, with a record 54 brands participating this year. 

The eclectic assortment of brands would tantalise the taste buds of any watch aficionado. Most of the big boys were there—hello Patek Philippe and Rolex—alongside such desirable names as A. Lange & Söhne, Cartier and Vacheron Constantin, as well as small independent players like ArtyA, Ressence, and Speake-Marin. Giant fashion houses Chanel and Hermès added a stylish flair to the proceedings. 

Needless to say, the assignment was a massive undertaking, particularly in this fast-media consumption era. Social media was king, and smartphones have effectively replaced the once-mighty pen as the essential tool for the average journo. If you haven’t already, do follow us on Instagram @tatlergmt for the latest updates and highlights. 

But Watches and Wonders 2024 also presented an exhilarating opportunity to experience firsthand the latest timepieces and delve deeply into cutting-edge technological advancement. The trade show also offered a crystal ball into the near future—mark my word, dune will be a big colour this year. 

Overall, the experience had few peaks but it also lacked significant valleys. There were plenty of beautiful commercial pieces, whether additional references of existing models (Rolex, Cartier, and Tudor hit it out of the park with their extensions) or new collections (the Hermès Cut feminine sports watch comes to mind). In the technical department, Piaget and IWC Schaffhausen brought their A-game. 

And while luxury watches dominate, the affordable luxury brands that made their debut in the hallowed halls of Palexpo, captivated with solid offerings that deliver excellent value for money.

Keep a lookout for our full report of Watches and Wonders 2024 in the July 2024 issue of Tatler GMT. While you wait, check out more of the watch fair’s highlights and other stories on tatlerasia.com.

Cheers, 

Brian Cheong
Regional Managing Editor, Tatler GMT

By the end of the week at Watches and Wonders 2024, we had lost count of the number of watches we had seen. The overdose, however, did not stop us from playing over and over again in our minds some of the amazing timepieces that crossed our paths. It was a tough job whittling the list down to just 10 out of hundreds of watches, but it must be done.

Click the link below to find out what the Tatler GMT editors have picked as their favourites this year. 

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I hate to admit it but there was a general lack of wonderment at the fair this year. The whimsical automatons were delightful, but in terms of technical innovations, you can count on one hand those who made the effort to push the envelope. 

While watch brands understandably prioritise sales figures over superfluous innovations, showcasing an innovative edge can significantly enhance brand prestige.

These are the few that had burnished their marque slightly more. IWC Schaffhausen made headlines (though Gisele Bündchen’s appearance at its booth momentarily stole the spotlight) with its Portugieser eternal calendar that automatically corrects three common years (2100, 2200, 2300) that would have been identified as leap years by traditional perpetual calendars.

Meantime, Piaget achieved new extreme thinness, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced a triple axis tourbillon with a double barrel, and Vacheron Constantin successfully packed 63 complications in a single watch for a VVIP client. 

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Like fashion, watch trends are cyclical; what goes out of style can come back in fashion. I’m referring to the changing perception of “feminine” small case sizes (think 38mm and below) that are presently being warmly embraced by the masculine set. (If you didn’t know, men's watches used to be in petite sizes.)

I find myself developing a newfound appreciation for these smaller watches. The 36mm Tag Heuer Carrera with gold copper dial fits beautifully on my wrist, a definite standout in my books. Chanel's J12 Couture 38mm is a splendid black watch with whimsical details that I wouldn’t hesitate to take to the ball.

In fact, you will find that some of the best timepieces are made for the ladies. Where else could you find an exquisite blend of three different craftsmanships—high watchmaking, gem-setting, and metier d’art—than in the Chopard Imperiale wristwatch?

For certain, the dazzling spread of jewellery watches at Watches and Wonders 2024 transcended the utilitarian aspect of time-telling to become objets d’art. A sautoir watch that swings playfully against the gentle curve of your back. A bejewelled bracelet that cleverly disguises a radiant mother-of-pearl face. A diamond-set wristwatch that puts an ancient marquetry front and centre. It’s an alchemy that proves hard to resist.

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Thirty-six years ago, six-time 24 Hours of Le Mans winner Jacky Ickx walked into a Chopard boutique looking to get a piece of jewellery repaired. There, he met Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, co-president of Chopard, and the men, through their shared passion for motorsport, forged a friendship that would culminate in seven watch collaborations.

The latest, Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph JX7, was unveiled in Geneva during Watches and Wonders, in a converted barn belonging to Scheufele’s brother-in-law. The dinner event celebrated both the personal and professional friendships between Ickx and Chopard, with guests fondly reminiscing cherished shared memories.

The watch is a fitting tribute to Ickx’s legendary career as a car racer, with inspiration from his racing helmet in midnight blue. A remarkable illustration of form meeting function, the limited edition self-winding chronograph recalls the rigours on the race track with a solid COSC-certified movement housed in innovative cases.

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It’s a pity that not many people know Chanel for more than its handbags and tweed jackets; the fashion house also makes fabulous watches. Both a fully black J12 and Monsieur de Chanel have a permanent spot on my list of must-have watches. With stakes in Kenissi (a movement maker that has a separate facility for Tudor) and F.P. Journe, Chanel shows that it is serious about watchmaking but remarkably doing it without compromising its stylish DNA. 

And so it was with great pleasure that I got to meet Arnaud Chastaingt, the director of Chanel Watchmaking Creation Studio, at Watches and Wonders 2024 where we chatted in great detail about the latest Couture O’Clock Capsule Collection, inspired by the tools of fashion ateliers. Clever and captivating, it is yet another brilliant showcase of Chastaingt’s creative method to integrate symbols associated with the maison in a manner that preserves their essence.

“The codes of the house—the camelia, the black, the white—are very important but I think the [Coco Chanel] legacy has endured today because of her liberty and audacity to create. That is more important and more inspiring,” said Chastaingt, clearly taking a leaf from the iconic founder in his own creations. 

Watch out for our full conversation in the July 2024 issue of Tatler GMT.