Few people would visit AMMO and not be a bit taken aback by the space, as there really is nothing else like it in Hong Kong. Designed by Joyce Wang, whose previous projects included the Roosevelt Hotel in Hollywood, the restaurant is theatrical. The design is inspired by Alphaville, a 1965 sci-fi by Jean-Luc Godard, and the spiral staircases that hang halfway down the ceiling are just one of the more dramatic and beautiful aspects of the design. Done in shades of copper and bronze, AMMO is particularly beautiful and warmly lit at night, although we also enjoy going during the day time, where the greenhouse-like structure of the restaurant allows you to enjoy the foliage that surrounds the building.

The menu is designed by chef Roland Schuller, of Drawing Room fame, and therefore includes a good number of Italian dishes. But where Drawing Room is elaborate with its set tasting menus, the food at AMMO is simple and rustic, and we must say, very reasonably priced. We had enjoyed the beef carpaccio last time we visited and were a bit surprised to find that it had been replaced by a beef tartar this time round. Nevertheless, when we taste the tartar, we are quite happy with the change, as it is well-seasoned and comes with cubes of stock gelee, which lends that something extra to the dish. We also like the obviously homemade French fries, which are fluffy and light. Pastas are the only options for main course here, and the signature angel hair with sea urchin and tomatoes arrives first and although the texture is just the teeniest clumpy, we do appreciate the flavours of the dish which is sweet from the tomatoes, with the sea urchin providing umami and creaminess. The garlic chips on top are the perfect extra touch. Texture is not a problem with our second pasta, a deceptively simple tagliolini with tomato sauce. This is a case of simplicity done well, with all the ingredients given ample room to shine. The eggs in the homemade pasta are easily discernible and the tomato sauce coats each strand perfectly. Finally, for dessert, the tiramisu served in a martini glass is a bit more disappointing. The proportion of mascarpone to espresso-soaked ladyfingers is a bit off, with too much of the former making it into an unnecessarily heavy dessert. 

AMMO has an excellent wine by the glass menu, perfect for those who just want to pop in for a few drinks after work and nibble on some tapas. By the bottle, the price range is more than reasonable, appealing to those who would like a decently priced bottle without burning a hole in the pocket. The wine list is also user-friendly, with tasting notes and points awarded to them. We particularly enjoyed our glass of 2007 chardonnay from Dierberg vineyard in Santa Maria Valley, which was the most expensive glass of white wine, priced at HK$195. 

The service at AMMO is good, but not flawless. Of our two tapas, one arrived midway through our first course, which made the setting down of dishes onto the already crowded table a challenge. The high ceilings of the restaurant means that it’s not particularly loud, but we found that the staff seemed to have trouble hearing us properly, so it’s a good thing that they repeated our orders back to us, or there would have been a few wrong dishes presented otherwise.

A meal for two with tapas, wine and three courses each comes to about HK$1,600. Given the impressive surroundings and generally good quality of the dishes, this is very good value for money and explains why AMMO is always packed.