Date of review: January 3, 2013 | Reviewed by:
Located on the second floor of the J Residence in Wan Chai, Bo Innovation is cool, modern, and sophisticated without being pretentious. A dedicated elevator accessed from Ship Street opens up directly to the terraced dining area, where guests are greeted by a host and escorted to their table. On cool autumn days, ask for a table here for al fresco dining. For those who opt to dine inside, you can watch the chefs putting the finishing touches on your meal in the semi-open kitchen.
Chef Alvin Leung describes his food as “X-treme Chinese,” which he defines as modern, innovative interpretation of the cuisine. Using molecular gastronomy techniques, Chef Leung and his team dazzle diners with whimsical, delicious and unique dishes that often deconstruct everyday Chinese dishes before turning them into examples of haute cuisine. In lieu of a breadbasket, diners are served a Chinese egg waffle, a typical Hong Kong street food, except Bo Innovation’s version is studded with Iberico ham and mustard – fans of sweet and savory will love this dish. Appetisers are constantly evolving, but one of the house’s signature dishes is titled “Molecular”, and is basically the essence of xiao long bao (Shanghainese soup dumplings). Decadent pork broth is encapsulated using a spherification technique, resulting in a delicate mouthful that resembles an egg yolk – the flavour is that of an intense xiao long bao, minus the meat and the flour wrapping. The saga-gyu beef dish is offered in 4oz or 8oz portions and prepared with A5 wagyu beef. The meat is marbled with plenty of fat and cuts like butter and the accompanying black truffle and soy sauce adds an earthy umami flavor. The “cheung fun” – rolled flat rice noodles that can usually be found on dim sum menus – is flavoured with a thin layer of black truffle spread and tossed in a sweet and salty soy sauce. “Memories of Cha Chian Teng” is the aptly named dessert course and includes rifts on many of Hong Kong’s favorite diner offerings, including butter toast ice cream, a yin yang drink made with half Hong Kong-style milk tea and half milk coffee, condensed milk foam, Nutella mousse and a salty egg coulis.
The wine list at Bo Innovation boasts an extensive array of offerings sure to please oenophiles, including options from Greece, Portugal and Austria in addition to the usual offerings from France, Italy, Australia and California. For a special treat, try a bottle from Chef Alvin Leung’s private selection.
Service at Bo Innovation is flawless – the staff are attentive and discerning without being intrusive, and servers do an excellent job of explaining each course in detail, including the ingredients and techniques used.
Three different set menus are available during dinner, starting at HK$880 per person for the tasting menu. Wine pairings are available for any of the set menus for an additional HK$700.