Carbone

Review

Mario Carbone’s first foray outside the US brought 1950s Greenwich Village to Lan Kwai Fong, with warm, rustic wood panelling and a rockin’-hot playlist curated to induce a raucous weekend. Sunday evenings are more family-friendly now, but the waitstaff still serve up that New York pizzazz in Zac Posen uniforms. Come famished, as portions are decidedly American, while complimentary appetisers keep on arriving—prosciutto, butter-drenched garlic bread, chunks of 24-month Parmesan chipped from a giant wheel and young Grana Padano shaved into unctuous rosettes via a girolle. The old-school service continues with certain items such as the Caesar alla ZZ, theatrically tossed tableside. The carpaccio Piemontese, paper-thin beef speckled with truffle and walnuts for the crunch, makes for a lighter, formal starter. The spicy rigatoni vodka remains a perennial favourite; pair the pasta with another signature, the consummately fluffy Mario’s Meatballs. The dessert trolley will be forced upon you and if you miraculously still have space, try a slice of lemon cheesecake. Parting shots of limoncello laced with grappa will help with the impending food coma.

What to order

• The iconic spicy rigatoni vodka remains a perennial favourite — delectably al dente, unequivocally unctuous, the jubilant kick provided by Calabrian chilli peppers.
• Mario’s Meatballs are another Carbone signature that is a consummately fluffy work of art. Try them broken and mixed in with the Spicy Rigatoni Vodka.
• New York-Italian classic bone-in veal cutlets with tomato and buffalo mozzarella are a must if one still has stomach space.

Tatler Tip

Come famished, as portions are decidedly American and a cornucopia of complimentary appetisers keep appearing on the table before orders are even placed.