Chez Ed・Chez Ed
Date of review: October 2, 2016 | Reviewed by: Rachel Duffell
Set on the 15th floor of Zing building in Causeway Bay's Yiu Wa Street,the lift doors open into a low-lit restaurant. At Chez Ed, the decor feels a little thrown together with draped material hanging over the walls and windows and elsewhere used as a division between tables. The open kitchen at one end of the restaurant allows diners to watch the chefs at work, framed in shiny black brick, while appealing lamps hang from the ceiling above well-spaced tables.
French cuisine created using classic culinary techniques is on the menu at Chez Ed where an eight-course tasting menu features prime ingredients that include truffle, foie gras and caviar. Largely well-executed, the overall flavour profiles and texture combinations work well, and while dishes are often fairly classic ones, plates are well-presented and there is some creativity found throughout most of the menu. Highlights include the first dish of the evening, a texturally interesting combination of langoustine carpaccio, beetroot confit and golden sheik caviar. It is followed by a rich 24-hour boiled pigeon and tomato consommé – just one of the dishes that requires considerable time and effort in its realisation. The main course of slow-cooked French duck breast is created through a similarly painstaking procedure, but comes out beautifully tender from the extended cooking time. Unfortunately it is served with potatoes that have not enjoyed a long-enough cooking time. The blue crabmeat gratin with green asparagus and the crispy Amanda's fillet with beurre blanc sauce have good flavour but both are served with rather too much of their respective sauces, rather taking away from dishes that could be otherwise delicate. The Termite mushroom risotto with crispy foie gras is a good combination of flavours, rich and intense, while the French Brie cheese with Tasmanian black truffle features intense and earthy notes of truffle that runs through the soft cheese. The dessert doesn't quite seem to fit the rest of the menu, being more Hong Kong-inspired, but is delicious, comprised of a warm green tea and chocolate pudding with Tokachi red bean and homemade vanilla ice cream.
A small but adequate wine list is comprised of bottles predominantly hailing from France with a good selection of Bordeaux priced up to HK$4,000 and plenty of choice in the HK$300-500 range. Choose the full wine-pairing menu that pre-matches six wines with the eight-course food menu, or order by the glass or bottle. Staff can recommend wines to accompany the food according to personal preference and the food's flavour profiles.
Service is attentive and efficient. Every dish is presented with an adequate introduction, attention is never hard to attract, and water and wine glasses are kept topped up as and when required. The Chef also introduces himself to diners in an always-appreciated gesture.
The standard 8-course tasting menu is priced at HK$980 per person, with the wine pairing at $1280 per person to include 6 glasses of wine. Given the high quality ingredients and carefully considered dishes, this price is to be expected.