Don Alfonso 1890・當奧豐素1890
Date of review: August 4, 2015 | Reviewed by: Mark Peaker
A windowless room richly adorned with original oil paintings and lit with twelve vibrant red Murano chandeliers hung over every table add a theatrical effect as they reflect light off the marble walls; tables are comfortably spaced and adorned with the finest crystal and silverware; a centre table filled with the chef’s daily sweet treats gives diners an excuse to meander in scenes reminiscent of an Italian opera. Don Alfonso retains a dress code to ensure guests are as elegant as the restaurant.
Chef Claudio Favero joined Don Alfonso in April 2014 and has taken the menu to new heights introducing innovative dishes, his home-made ravioli stuffed with veal ragout “Genovese style” served with pecorino cheese and dried vegetable is bursting with flavour and texture; perhaps the gold leaf atop the ravioli is unnecessary but it’s all part of the theatrical delivery of food that plays its part perfectly. A signature main of baby lamb, Mediterranean fresh herbs, potatoes “millefoglie”, sweet and sour spring onions and Italian broccoli is presented elegantly and cooked to perfection; the flavours all contributing individually to the lamb which melts over one’s tongue in a medley of flavour. Italian desserts are renowned and the classic Tiramisu is reborn here; taking nothing away from the original creation Chef Favero has taken the dish to a new taste sensation; combining five coffees with several liquors absorbed in to the homemade savoiardi covered with the lightest mascarpone, sinful and delicious.
Sharing the Grand Lisboa’s master wine list allows you to search by vintage, region or grape and provides an explanation of the wine when selected; from affordable familiar houses to wines mere mortals can only dream of being able to afford; several available by the glass and the sommelier excellent in his advice.
Silver service that is well executed; staff are knowledgeable of the menu and able to answer any questions. Glasses are refilled and plates removed silently as waitresses observe without intrusion.
With some dishes costing up to and over MOP1,000.00 this is not a cheap restaurant; a degustation menu is offered at MOP990.00 per person or MOP1,300.00 with wine pairing. Set lunch menus range from MOP330.00 to MOP530.00 without wine.