Date of review: July 28, 2017 | Reviewed by: Wilson Fok
Located within the quarters of Wyndham Street’s LKF Tower, Fang Fang adds a dose of Oriental energy to the mostly Western restaurants in the building. The welcoming entrance greets guests into a well-stocked bar at the centre of the restaurant space, separating the bar area from dinner tables.
The dining room at the back is spacious and tables are well-spaced apart. Dark wooden panels separate the dining space into smaller semi-private sections, embellished with crockery on the shelves and comfortable booth seating, adding a contemporary Asian flair to the décor.
The food menu offers a balanced selection of Pan-Asian fare, from Japanese maki rolls and skewers to Chinese soups and South East Asian stir-fries, often with a Western touch.
Ordering the maki rolls may seem inappropriate, but the dragon prawn and cucumber roll was well-made, where the maki was cut bite-sized with flakes of avocado on the top. The deep-fried prawn head was crispy too. The crispy kale was a surprise for the evening. Served with fish floss, the fibrous leaves turned into green, translucent confetti shards that were seasoned well, a great treat with cocktails. The five spice squid had a light coating and needed considerable amount of seasoning as the dish was a bit bland.
For mains, the Fang Fang roasted duck is a favourite among larger parties. Smaller parties can enjoy stir-fries and meaty mains such as jasmine tea smoked ribs. Slow-cooked for one and a half days, the ribs are tender and the jasmine tea smoked is rather intense at first but quickly mellows with floral notes. The Fang Fang-style paneer is a dish of stir-fried cubes of Indian cottage cheese. The sauce itself was rich, but the paneer cubes were too large and barely gained any richness from the sauce itself.
Desserts were disappointing at Fang Fang. The selection held little surprise other than a soufflé pandan which was only available for a few days since the restaurant opened, and will soon be taken off the menu. The ginger crème brûlée was beautifully caramelised and garnished with fresh fruits, but the custard underneath has split slightly, leaving a rather coarse texture on the palate and left an almost undetectable hint of ginger.
Fang Fang takes pride in its extensive range of drinks offered. The wine list offers a generous selection of by the glass wine options, though the range is limited and we failed to locate rare gems and labels that will pair well with the restaurant’s pan-Asian dishes. The by-the-bottle selection is marked up way too much even compared to restaurants in the same building.
Cocktails, however, are more reliable. Inspired by the five elements of Chinese Taoism, the mixologists’ creative beverages tend to be quite sweet, as demonstrated in the Nuer Fang, a small but potent drink with goji berry-infused bourbon, Huangjiu, and mezcal mixed with lemon, mango and lemongrass. Sweetness aside, the cocktail is good pairing with deep-flavours from the main courses. Mocktails are also on the sweet side; served in a bamboo shaped glass, the Avocado Crush mixes matcha, coconut, avocado and mint to create a cooling elixir in a pale shade of green, and it is just the right consistency to clean the palate between courses.
Service offered at Fang Fang was friendly and mostly attentive. The staff team was keen to explain the restaurant’s concept and offer suggestions for popular orders with comprehensive description of menu items as well as cocktail concepts. Portion control suggestions are on point, although on a quiet evening of our visit dishes took longer than anticipated to arrive.
A dinner for two with one drink from the bar amounts to HK$850. Fang Fang is a reasonably priced new restaurant with a wide, popular concept, yet it merits a clearer direction to polish its uniqueness for guests to return for more.