This moody izakaya is as reliable as ever, bringing consistently great food to the table along with a seasonally rotating menu of regional Japanese specialities and sake. The menu is designed to be inclusive, with many of the major categories covered—small appetisers along with sashimi and sushi open the selection, followed by charcoal-grilled skewers, tempura, hotpot and house-made soba. Dishes that lead with fresh produce are our recommendations; the Nagano tomato topped with thin strands of dried Ariake seaweed is a lesson in umami and we love the crunch of tiny cucumbers, stacked in a Jenga-like arrangement with layers of miso paste. Thinly sliced seasonal whitefish, arranged beautifully on a plate, is nicely paired with seaweed, skinny chives and a piquant vinegar sauce that you should use sparingly. Do not leave Gonpachi without a serving of the soba, made daily using stone-ground buckwheat (you can see the mortar on the way into the restaurant)—and let staff know if you would like to share with your dining companions, as they are happy to divide the portions accordingly.

What to order

• The classic seiro soba is rightfully a house signature, served with a deeply flavoured tsuyu dipping sauce, freshly chopped spring onion and wasabi.
• Snow crab and avocado roll is attractively presented, with light flakes of crabmeat and golden crab roe scattered on top.
• The green tea parfait with coconut cream also comes with delightfully chewy mochi and red bean.

Tatler Tip

Choose the tatami room for a cosier experience—don’t worry as the floor has a recess for more comfortable way to place your legs.