Gough's on Gough
Date of review: August 3, 2017 | Reviewed by: Wilson Fok
A restaurant that’s operated by a furniture label certainly has its advantages when it comes to design; Gough’s on Gough is a handsome space with fine details scattered across the two-storey establishment. Adjacent to the furniture store, guests are greeted by a golden spiral staircase connecting the two floors. Walking up the golden helix reveals the restaurant’s main dining area and bar, embellished with a glittering crystal chandelier that accentuates the black-and-white patterned marble flooring.
The main dining space is petite but comfortable throughout, as guests can sink into spacious leather banquettes and enjoy their meals under soft, warm lighting. The décor adds a sophisticated touch with adequate placement of design elements but without giving the sense that you’re dining in a furniture showroom.
The menu at Gough’s on Gough is small, consisting of a seasonal tasting menu and a short list of a la carte dishes as well as desserts. The six-course tasting menu offers a taste of chef Arron Rhodes’ contemporary British creations.
We started with Peruvian corn, a South-American inspired starter, featuring juicy corn kernels and avocado chunks, dressed in tangy lime-laced ‘tiger’s milk’ dressing.
The dashi custard adds an Eastern touch, where sea urchin, trout roe and shimeji mushroom float atop a velvety custard. An Instagrammable dish at best, the rich starter is best consumed warm.
The handmade gnocchi is tender and light, with just the right hint of herbs lacing through the creamy smoked Applewood cheddar sauce. It is also a great course to share before moving on to mains.
The grass-fed wagyu steak takes Australian wagyu, roasted and served with roasted shallots. The steak is tender with just the right slither of pinkness in the middle. The slow-cooked Tanyasi chicken is a surprise, as the 81-day old free-range chicken is slow-cooked and roasted, the breast juicy with just the thinnest crispy skin on top while the thigh meat is prepared into a croquette. The green peas, asparagus, and mushroom carpaccio add fresh textures to the meaty mains.
Guests can choose to drink their desserts, selecting a few sweet cocktails from the drinks menu, or some of the fruitiest desserts in selection. The Lychee Garden takes a daring pairing of sharp passion fruit with mellow lychee, which slowly builds up its floral notes enjoyed with vanilla bean mousse and croutons of gingerbread. Lemon thyme ice cream is creamy but light with just the right herbaceous touch, offset by dabs of rich lemon curd and fresh pouring cream. The hearty texture of parsnip jam is a welcoming element against the buttery vanilla cookie.
While Gough’s on Gough has a relatively good collection of wines, especially a rich selection of by-the-glass options to choose from, it is their cocktail selection that does the establishment proud.
Champagne cocktails such as Victory Sign fuses Fords gin and champagne with a homemade ginger honey syrup, adding a spicy-sweetness to the cocktail. A slight lemon twist around the coup’s rim adds zesty aroma. The bar staff is also keen on creating bespoke cocktails to guests with something special in mind.
The service at Gough’s on Gough is seamless and smooth throughout, as the hostesses offer the restaurant’s concept introduction while leading guests to their tables, to service staff offering assistance in the food and drinks menu. The service is particularly knowledgeable about the establishment’s menu offerings as well as cocktail pairing suggestions, as they are keen on following up guests’ orders.
A dinner for two including one cocktail each amounts to HK$1,600. Gough’s on Gough weaves high standards and execution of food, drinks, and service in forming a remarkable dining experience that assures many returns.