On the ground floor of the Harbour Grand in Hung Hom. Guests must pass through the lobby and a long corridor to reach the Harbour Grill, which is beside the hotel’s signature buffet restaurant. The sea view across to Hong Kong Island is mesmerizing. Tables are well spaced. Ask for one by the window on the far side of the room for a romantic dinner.    

A traditional steakhouse menu at its best. We started with the dungeness crab cake. Pan fried and caramelised on both sides, it was chock full of flaky crabmeat. The signature lobster bisque was creamy but overseasoned, and the lobster meat was a little overcooked and had become tough. The seabass fillet with beurre blanc and roasted new potatoes was a good choice for the main dish, and a reliable one for lovers of seafood. The beurre blanc was the perfect pairing for fresh fish. Prime tenderloin marble score M9+ was undercooked at first, but returned with a beautifully charred crust and was just right in the middle—pink and juicy. The side dishes were a little weak; the confit shallots were too sweet and the baked green asparagus was too greasy, though the green tips remained nicely crisp. For dessert, the French lemon tart was slightly cloying, but the Grand Marnier soufflé was standing up properly when delivered and its texture was perfectly soft and pillowy throughout.

The list has an impressive abundance of by-the-glass options that makes it easy to find good matches for the various appetizers and main courses.

The advantage of a steakhouse located in a hotel is the service. The staff are well-trained and knowledgeable on both the menu and wine-pairing options. They are friendly, maintain a seamless flow of service and are quick to correct any mistakes.

A full dinner for two including wine amounts to HK$1,800. Considering the location and restaurants of the same calibre, the price is on the high side.