Sri Lankan cuisine is pitifully under-represented in Hong Kong. It’s lighter, more fragrant and less seasoned than Indian food, with coconut milk and coconut oil used rather than ghee or dairy. The best place to discover the difference is at Hotal Colombo, a cheerful “canteen” in the heart of Soho, with chef Gizzy Alesbrook in charge. Acquaint yourself with hoppers (bowl-shaped pancakes made with fermented rice flour), kothu (think bubble and squeak), kari (curries), and sambols —essential side condiments.

Signature Dishes

• Chicken kari
• Hopper with kiri hodi, pol sambol and lunu miris
• Kothu

Tatler Tip

Book ahead for the popular Colombo Crab Club, held every other Monday, with three styles of fresh mud crab per table.