Despite its obscure location and somewhat dated decor, Le Pan offers a fine-dining experience that rivals any other in the city. The restaurant bills itself as inventive French, but its influences span the globe, as demonstrated by its Asian rendition of ceviche. Dishes are all gorgeously presented and impressively complex, and while prime ingredients are sometimes overshadowed by all that’s happening on the plate, more often than not, the balance is just right, resulting in culinary creations that juxtapose taste and texture in the most delicious of ways. The menu changes seasonally and the best way in is through the six- or eight-course degustation dinner options, both of which can be enjoyed with pairings from the restaurant’s extensive wine cellar. Additional details—including the innovative amuse-bouche and the thick curls of house-churned butter—make the long trek that much easier to swallow.

What to order

• Hamachi with tomato, ponzu and gazpacho is bright while also highlighting the fattiness of the fish.
• Racan pigeon with miso eggplant, pumpkin, jus de carcasse is robust and deeply satisfying.
• Le Pan’s spin on Paris-Brest is plated with smoked almonds, toasted grains and Koshihikari rice ice cream.

Tatler Tip

You can take a free shuttle bus from Kowloon Bay MTR station to the restaurant.