Walking towards the entrance of Le Relais de l’Entrecôte, guests will immediately notice the trademark red awning. Inside, the dark wooden walls are decorated with classic French posters; to give the impression of a bigger space, several large mirrors are strategically placed. Classic French tunes play gently overhead, and were it not for the congestion on the streets of Wan Chai below, we could imagine being in Paris. Seating is comfortably spaced, with the restaurant attracting loyal fans of the franchise, as well as first-timers looking for new eats.

The menu here is simple with a set of salad, and steak and frites – desserts may be ordered at an additional cost. Before the meal begins, we are presented with a warm baguette fresh from the oven that retains a lightly crisp exterior and soft crumb. Next to arrive is a crisp green salad, served with Perigord walnuts; a refreshing starter, the salad is light and balanced, helping to whet the appetite. The tender steak arrives at our requested doneness, slathered with a secret sauce (created by founder Paul Gineste de Saurs), and is served in two portions to ensure that the meat is kept warm throughout the meal – the second portion is placed aside with a tea candle underneath, and it only served when you have finished the first portion. The steak is served with a side of frites, and diners may request unlimited refills. For dessert, the profiteroles au chocolat feature light choux pastry that is covered with chocolate sauce – an indulgent end to the meal.

Although not extensive, the wine list provides a good variety of red and white blends from various French producers. We recommend going with the house red wine ‘La Constance’ from the family-owned vineyard Château de Saurs in Southwest France, which matches well with the steak.

Servers are keen and attentive, dutifully watching to see the progression of your meal to decipher when to serve the second portion of steak, and ensure that your needs for French fry refills are met.

The set menu, which includes a salad, steak and fries, comes to HK$288 per person – expect to add more when ordering drinks and dessert – which we find to be great value for money.