Morton's of Chicago - The Steakhouse ・莫爾頓牛排坊
Tsim Sha Tsui
Date of review: October 7, 2016 | Reviewed by: RACHEL READ
Located on the forth floor of Tsim Sha Tsui’s Sheraton Hotel, Morton’s dining room is long and narrow with a wall’s worth of large windows looking out towards the harbour. The décor is sleek and contemporary with a few glitzy touches, but the main conversation point here is the stellar skyline view that, despite the best efforts of Hong Kong’s never-ending construction, is still utterly majestic, especially at night; the private room in particular has an incredible vista. With such a grown-up and sophisticated ambience, the one slightly incongruous note is the chart pop music soundtrack – smooth jazz or swing would be a better fit.
Morton’s might be all about the beef, but its classic American steakhouse menu acquits itself well on all fronts – as our appetisers prove. The jumbo lump crab cake is seasoned well, boasts a generous amount of succulent crabmeat and is served with a highly moreish mustard mayonnaise. The prosciutto-wrapped mozzarella is also simple but delicious, with a balsamic-dressed salad that adds just the right punch of freshness to proceedings. We finish both dishes with nothing but praise.
Nevertheless, the steaks – all USDA prime-aged, grain-fed beef – are undoubtedly the stars of the show, and are treated with the respect that such premium produce deserves. Our 6-ounce centre-cut filet mignon is top-class: soft as butter, meltingly tender, rich in intense beef flavour and cooked perfectly to your preference – in our case, a textbook medium-rare. Given the price though, it would be nice if your choice of sauce was included in the meal rather than as a supplementary add-on. Sides are on point too, including golden-crunchy Parmesan and truffle matchstick fries and indulgent creamed spinach – albeit far too huge for two people to make much progress with… and it is definitely worth saving room for dessert.
The key lime pie initially seems a huge portion but one taste of its buttery crust and silky, light and zesty filling means we are happy to polish off every bite. Meanwhile, Morton’s “Legendary Hot Chocolate Cake” is what dessert dreams are made of, with a rich oozing chocolate lava that spills out once the sponge has been cut open. Neither too sweet nor too heavy, it is a fitting end to a flawless meal.
The extensive wine list features over 200 varieties that cover a diverse span of countries, prices and serving sizes, including both unusual and more standard picks. A range of “Modern Mortini” cocktails – creative concoctions that sit alongside their list of tried-and-tested cocktail classics – is a fun touch.
Service is attentive, personable and extremely knowledgeable, as evidenced by the detailed introduction to all the restaurant’s cuts of beef that every table receives. It is obvious that staff have a really thorough understanding of the menu, and they offer explanations and recommendations confidently.
Morton’s is not a destination for your average weekday dinner – a three-course meal for two with wine costs around $2500 – but with top quality food, generous portions, fantastic views and exemplary service, it is a price we are happy to pay for a truly memorable meal.