Morton's of Chicago - The Steakhouse ・莫爾頓牛排坊
Tsim Sha Tsui
Date of review: March 16, 2015 | Reviewed by:
Located on the fourth floor of the Sheraton Hotel at the harbour end of Nathan Road, the setting raises hopes for good views, and it certainly delivers. A long, narrow restaurant with large windows along the Salisbury Road side, while the fourth floor may not seem high, particularly considering the many lofty dining options in Tsim Sha Tsui, the view from Morton’s is splendid. A panorama of the Hong Kong skyline means diners can watch ships float by as well as enjoy the city’s renowned light show, if the timing is right. Inside, the restaurant has been recently refurbished and the setting is contemporary yet minimalist – the view does the talking here. A private room seats up to 14 people so you can enjoy the whole experience intimately with those you choose.
Appetisers mainly focus on seafood and it would be a shame to miss the sharing platter. There are baked and chilled options. The latter features pairs of juicy prawns, served with a wasabi tomato sauce; Australian oysters with the option of a squeeze of lemon, a drop of tabasco or a dollop of horseradish; Alaskan King Crab legs served in the shell, Jumbo Lump crabmeat and Maine lobster. Beautifully presented on a round ice platter in the center of the table, the lobster’s head forming the plate’s centrepiece, the seafood is supremely fresh, flown in from around the world. It would be a crime not to order a piece of beef for main course at this American steakhouse, and there is certainly a cut to suit everyone, though large is the order of the day with up to 24oz cuts served for one and a whopping 48oz double porterhouse for two. The filet mignon offers 6oz, 8oz and 12oz options and the cut is tender, soft like butter, meaty and melts in the mouth. There are fattier cuts on offer, as well as unusual options such as the five peppercorn strip, a firmer meat, lightly fatty with a definite kick of the rub. Sides are plentiful, particularly when it comes to carb choices with a range of potatoes as well as an indulgent Macaroni and cheese: creamy with al dente pasta and a crisp, grilled cheese top. Desserts include the new-to-menu Apple Crisp and the Morton’s Legendary Hot Chocolate Cake. The former features large, juicy sultanas that offer a sweet contrast to the crisp, slightly tart slices of apple, all nestled under a crumbly topping and large scoop of ice cream. The chocolate option consists of a firm sponge surrounding a liquid chocolate centre, not too sweet nor too rich, and a memorable and fitting ending to an indulgent meal.
Wine doesn't come cheap, but every glass is worth it. The list features a selection of “interesting and hard to find” wines from around the world, as well as more familiar faces. The by-the-glass range is good, varying from HK$110 to HK$350 a glass so diners can splash out even if they’re only going to have one. The sommelier has his recommendations, which may quickly be adopted as firm favourites for diners, as the whites are a fresh and light accompaniment to the excellent seafood appetisers, and the reds that follow a perfect complement to the juicy steaks. But all work beautifully alone too.
From the first call to make a reservation, through to the end of the meal, service is excellent, with staff first enquiring on booking as to whether the meal is in aid of a special occasion. Service is assured and staff are well versed on the menu, particularly when it comes to the steak. Wine recommendations are left up to the sommelier who is called quickly for his views on accompanying glasses. Diners are forewarned that desserts take time to cook so orders can be taken before main course is served to save waiting later. Thoughtful and thorough.
A meal for two, with three courses each and two glasses of wine comes to HK$3,000. From the stunning view to the quality and quantity of food, attentive staff and fabulous wine, Morton’s offers a great overall experience and one that’s particularly good for that special occasion.