There is a raw, intimate appeal to Japanese barbecue, which Robatayaki tries to recreate. The large, windowless space is divided into smaller rooms, with most diners seated at one of three cooking counters. Being part of a hotel, guests are a mix of tourists and locals. An array of seafood, meat and vegetables is spread before you, including, disturbingly, sharks fin. The chef slow cooks your meal over open embers, before serving it to you on a long paddle board, establishing a connection with the diner in the process. The extensive menu spans sushi, sashimi and tempura, though it’s best to stick to the namesake specialities. A mix of shimeji and golden mushrooms cooked in foil is a garlicky, promising start, as is tender deboned chicken wings stuffed with spicy fish roe. The signature Hokkaido Taraba crab is meaty, if dry, a similar fate suffered by the king prawn. Service is well meaning, though knowledge of the food and sake offerings could improve.

Tips

• Deboned chicken wings stuffed with spicy fish roe, are succulent, slightly piquant and make for a delectable snack
• A thin slice of Hungarian Mangalica pork is char-grilled then served on foil, its marbled fat keeping the meat tender and flavoursome
• King crab, or grilled Hokkaido taraba crab, comes in big, meaty pieces and is best enjoyed with your fingers
• Request a counter seat and check when your chef finishes, to avoid late orders being cooked in the kitchen