At Samsen’s Sheung Wan outpost, the Wagyu beef skewers are seared to a perfect medium rare, and the Khao Soi curry is served with toothsome egg noodles and tender chicken that falls off the bone. Share the latter dish between two and order a savoury fried rice (crabmeat is ideal) to soak up the rich coconut sauce. Best stick to beer as a palate cleanser— although cocktails such as the Lemongrass and Ginger G&T used Thai flavours, they were too subtle. Crispy, warm and smothered in condensed milk, the banana roti is elevated with an added scoop of Thai red tea ice cream to balance the sweetness. With hearty portions and bold flavours in dishes that arrive at your table almost as quickly as you order them, this is upscale street food without pretence.

Signature Dishes

• Khao soi
• Grilled Wagyu beef skewers
• Banana roti

Tatler Tip

Order the Wagyu beef skewers solely for the sauce. A mix of cherry tomato, lime, chilli, coriander and fish sauce, the sweet-sour-spicy-salty flavours add oomph to everything else.