Restaurant ・ International
Sevva, which sits prettily on top of Prince’s Building in Central, is known for its outdoor terrace with awe-inspiring views of HSBC and the LegCo Building but the interior of the restaurant is equally beautiful. Separated into Bankside and Harbourside and boasting one of Hong Kong’s first living green wall and an equally manicured crowd, it’s easy to see why Sevva is a local’s top choice to impress any visiting friend.
Given the crowd and the setting, one would assume that Sevva’s main focus would not be on food. But first impressions can be deceiving and dishes like the Sevva salad and mac and cheese have always had their fans. Not only that, but the food had even improved from our visit last year. We start off with a warm Sichuan duck salad, a decadent starter that is large enough for two, and we note with a guilty smile, probably the least healthy salad one can get. We love the combination of the sliced duck breast, cubes of foie gras, large slices of nashi pear and pink peppercorns. It also comes with a duck leg confit, which may look like just a garnish but is actually one of the most tender and moist confit we’ve had in months. For mains, we try the signature Indian dosa with butter chicken. This is the most disappointing dish of the evening: the crêpe is thin, but not quite paper thin, especially in the middle while the chicken needs more kick to save it from blandness. A much more successful main and one that will please carnivores is the grilled strip loin. Cooked to medium rare as requested, the M8 wagyu may be a tad too charred for some, but we enjoyed it just fine and especially approve of the fat-cut fries, which are crispy on the outside but wonderfully soft in the middle. As a side, we asked for the famous mac and cheese and are surprised to find that it is actually penne rather than macaroni. Misnomer aside, we can see why this dish is listed as a “city favourite” with its generous amount of black truffle and cheese. For dessert, we try two of Ms B’s signature cakes – the original crunch cake with sponge cake, whipped cream and honeycomb; and the chocolate fudge with orange marmalade. While the chocolate cake is on the sweet side, we have absolutely no complaints about the crunch cake with its slightly lemon-scented and airy sponge and generous amount of cream and crunchy honeycomb. Both cakes are on the large side and again, ideal for sharing.
The wine list at Sevva is extensive, with a section of limited Bordeaux, including a 1986 Margaux and Petrus from 1994 and 1995. Although impressive, the wine list holds few surprises. The staff is adept at providing suggestions and the glass of recommended 2005 Chevalier de Lascombes went extremely well with our steak.
The staff in Sevva are well-trained and overall provides efficient and pleasant service. There are a few glitches: the bread basket arrived without any butter or dip, and at quite a few points in the evening, conversations between passing staff members are clearly discernible. But these are mere quibbles given the general high level of service.
A three-course dinner for two with wine will come to just over HK$2,000. While this is not cheap, it is worth the splurge given the impeccable surroundings and well-executed cuisine. Also note that portions are surprisingly large, which makes most dishes fit for sharing.