A lack of choice is never an issue at Ta-ke, a beautiful zen den hidden within a mall. Stone pathways lead diners into one of five zones inspired by the courtyards of 17th-century Japan, each loosely separated by bamboo rods. First up is a blond wood counter where chefs turn out glistening sushi and sashimi. At the back are tempura and teppanyaki counters, where the scent of sizzling wagyu beef can be detected. In between are comfortable tables and a tatami room, where diners can opt for any combination of items, either à la carte or kaiseki, or select sukiyaki or shabu shabu set courses. The choices can seem overwhelming, but thankfully the staff can guide you through the menu, and a handy printed sheet lists the dishes that come on the kaiseki and set menus. The sake and wine list is eye-opening, and includes the sought-after Juyondai Ryusen junmai daiginjo at a whopping HK$36,000 and the Dom Pérignon Andy Warhol tribute collection at HK$38,000 alongside more affordable drops.

What to order

• Assorted tempura platter comes with two kinds of lightly battered prawns, including the head, and seasonal fish and vegetables.
• Quality sushi is served on rice mixed with red rice vinegar, a little-seen traditional preparation that imparts a lighter flavour.
• Kaiseki tasting menus are a good way to try Ta-ke’s diverse offerings and include sushi, sashimi, tempura and a selection of other dishes.

Tatler Tip

Diners ordering omakase, kaiseki or other set menus can take advantage of the good-value drinks package, which includes free-flow of premium sake and champagne.